Is this how I'm supposed to build it? [LONG]

[rapieper at yahoo.com (Ron Pieper)]

Sure. 

Sure you never saw my (age old) page.

Suuurrrre.

http://scirocco.dhs.org/cheapassron/bridge/index.html

;0

Ron

--- stetson <tim@unrealexpectations.ath.cx> wrote:
> K then......
> 
> Since I have _2_ engine swaps to complete now I decided it was time to
> make the magical mythical engine swap brace.
> 
> I have seen them mentioned as the INDESPENSIBLE tool for a swap and saw
> one in Anson's "Let's kill the engine from sustained 8K RPM" movie
> but can not find anything that addresses PLANS for said device.
> 
> Well if that's the way it's gonna be I'll just fab my own!
> 
> The pics (you knew they were coming, right?) are @:
> 
> http://unrealexpectations.ath.cx/drupal/?q=image/tid/67
> 
> And that's what I have done. Looks damn good too! But I would like to
> troll for suggestions as now that it's together I already see areas for
> improvement, most notably where the all thread comes through the spanning
> 2x4's. It should probably go through a block of 2x4 so that the weight is
> distributed over a wider area and the washers don't dig into the spanning
> 2x4's when supporting the engine.
> 
> The other area I'm wondering about is the "feet" on either side and if
> they should be longer? They are at 8-9" ATM and I'm thinking maybe 1'
> would be a better "footprint" to spread the weight out.
> What do you think?
> 
> 
> But so the next person looking to build one of these can find a rough
> outline of materials needed, I will list the materials used.
> 
> They be:
> 
> 1.)  2 - 5' 2x4's
> 2.)  2 - 3/4" x 3 1/2" blocks cut lengthwise from a 2x4
> 3.)  2 - 9-12" long 2x4's for the feet
> 4.)  2 - 6-9" long 2x4's for all thread anchor area (tentative, but can't
> hurt)
> 5.)  2 - 1/2" all thread 2'-3' long (I went w/ 2')
> 6.)  2 - 1/2" x 13 (approx. 1 3/4" long) couplers (look like REALLY long
> nuts)
> 7.)  2 - 1/2" x 8" long carriage bolts
> 8.)  2 - 1/2" x 7" (approx.) hooks w/ threaded ends
> 9.)  4 - 2" x 1/2" I.D. washers
> 10.) 4 - 1 1/2" x 1/2" I.D. washers
> 11.) 4 - 1/2" nuts
> 12.) 4 - 1/4" x 4 1/2" long carriage bolts
> 13.) 4 - 1/4" washers (standard size)
> 14.) 4 - 1/4" nuts
> 15.) 1 - 1/4" drill bit 4-5" long (drilling area, not entire length)
> 16.) 1 - 1/2" drill bit 4" long (drilling area, not entire length)
> 17.) 1 - 1 1/4" to 1 3/8" spade drill bit ( I didn't have/use this but I
> looked for it, and not finding it i used the 1/2" bit to hack out a
> countersinking area for the carriage bolt head.)
> 
> A.) Take the 2 5' 2x4's the line up and sandwich the 3/4' x 3 1/2" blocks
> at the ends and hold in place by using masking tape from outside 2x4 to
> opposite 2x4.
> 
> B.) Drill 4 - 1/4" holes through the sandwiched boards (try to make them
> straight), put the 1/4" x 4 1/2" carriage bolts through holes, washer and
> nut the other side, and tighten.
> 
> C.) Take the 9-12" 2x4's and measure/mark 1/2 the length and width of the
> 2x4 while it's standing on it's 1 1/2" side. (OPTIONAL! Use the spade
> bit and drill on your center marked area 1/2 - 3/4" deep. Then...) Drill
> center marked areas through 3 1/2" width of the 2x4 (trying to keep it
> straight again) using the 1/2" bit.
> 
> D.) Put the 1/2" carriage bolt through the 2x4's w/ the rounded "head" end
> resting in the countersunk area. Whack the bolts w/ a hammer a couple of
> times to make sure they are seated and out of your way.
> 
> E.) (OPTIONAL! But I'm going to do this) Take the 6-9" 2x4's and
> measure/mark the 1/2 width and length while they are laying on their 3
> 1/2" side and drill through the center marked area w/ the 1/2" drill bit.
> 
> F.) Stand the 9-12" 2x4's on their 1 1/2" edge w/ the threads of the
> carriage bolts on top and then put the threads through the middle of the
> 3/4" spaced center of the 5' assembly. Using 1 - 2" washer, 1 - 1 1/2"
> washer, and 1 - 1/2" nut per side, put them on each side in that order and
> tighten (loosely).
> 
> G.) Take the 2 - 2' x 1/2" pieces of all-thread and put a nut 6-9" from
> one side, Follow w/ 1 - 1 1/2" and 1 - 2" washer in that order and then
> the "optional" 6-9" 2x4 and finally the 1/2" x 13 coupler threaded on
> until there is approx. 1/2" of I.D. threaded area left to screw something
> into.
> 
> H.) Insert the above assemblies, coupler end first, through the 3/4" space
> in the 5' assembly (which hopefully by this time is set up on the fender
> rails of the machine under the knife).
> 
> I.) Take the 2 - 1/2" threaded hooks and hook them through the hoist holes
> of the engine and join to the coupler end of the assembly above it turning
> ONLY the coupler to thread it on.
> 
> J.) Now you should be ready to hoist the engine enough to loosen and
> remove the mounts and then drop the puppy (figuratively of course, I'm not
> QUITE as bad as Anson.  ;^} )
> 
> I apologize to our metric members as I'm NOT going to invest the time
> necessary to do all the conversions and notation of such. I'm in a SAE
> land and so think SAE.
> 
> I'm probably re-inventing the wheel (again) here but I thought that it
> would be nice to have a spec'ed out listing of materials and methods to
> craft this puppy.
> 
> As you can see from the pics I have not yet implemented a few of the steps
> listed above (the 6-9" 2x4 piece) in my design but now it's all together I
> think I will as it's a good idea. This is why nails were expressly ignored
> for construction purposes. Another reason is that I may wish to use this
> on another VW or (god forbid!) car. The sizes for engine compartment width
> were different between the Golf and the Roc so I made it adjustable.
> 
> Materials costs were approx. $50 (I got the wood for free from my
> bro-in-law for doing the Chicago PC fixit run) for hardware & wood (I'm
> guess-timating here).
> 
> You'll notice 2 other pics lumped in w/ the brace pics. There is a story
> here.
> 
> Did you ever move into a new apartment, get married, have a baby, etc. and
> amongst the well wisher gifts is the obligatory toaster oven that you find
> is absolutely useless for cooking and NOT something you want running in
> your kitchen during the summer? It usually gets relegated to a space
> like the garage or basement when you finally come to the above
> realizations.
> 
> I have found a use for this Moby Dick of appliances.
> 
> Do you like painting car parts? Do you hate the drying time of the paint
> products being extremely long and not always accurate? I have w/ the wheel
> pimping project and so have found a way to accelerate the drying
> (it's actually baking now) process.
> 
> In the pics you can see the center inserts for the wheels being "cured"
> after an early morning painting session for at least 1/2 day @ 250F. After
> cooling, this should make sure that I don't encounter any more wrinkling
> of prior coats when applying a new one.
> 
> The wheels will be treated to this process. But how?
> 
> By using the humongous box that the new air compressor came in (a large
> box on top of a smaller "sleeve" box bottom) that is large enough for the
> wheels not to touch the edges. The toaster oven will be on the floor w/ 1
> of Eric's front engine mount braces being used as a stand to hold 1 wheel
> above the oven (I'm VERY sorry Eric, but I was going to put it in w/ the
> 3A swap and since that's indefinitely postponed due to rassle-frassin'
> 83-84mm PISTONS I have yet to install it and it's construction material
> is PERFECT for this application.) then place the big compressor box over
> the whole she-bang and let them roast for @ least 1/2 day @ 300-350F.
> 
> How's that for a cheap-ass painting auto clave?
> (Or at least a recyclable use of worthless appliance?)
> 
> Groovin' on a new batch of paint fumes,
> 
> Tim
> 
> 
> Uh-oh -- I've let the cat out of the bag.
> Let me, then, straightforwardly state the thesis I shall now elaborate:
> Making variations on a theme is really the crux of creativity.
> 		-- Douglas R. Hofstadter, "Metamagical Themas"
> 
> 
> 
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