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was Re: upper strut nut question..., now tranny drain plug Q



this is getting a bit anal now but, WTF, it's friday: to my feeble mind, box 
wrench = box spanner = a short hexagonal tube with, basically,what amounts 
to a pivoting wire handle. Pretty agricultural but does the job. Alternative 
versions are one piece cast alloy, I guess not meant to do anything 
particularly heavy. What I was talking about was a closed end 12-point 
wrench/spanner, usually double-ended, with the shaft turned-down at either 
end to give access to recessed nuts. Is that still a box wrench?

On a completely differnt subject, I have a problem - need to undo the 
transmission drain plug. Don't have the proper plug key to hand. What's the 
likelihood of being able to use a wheel bolt if I file a couple of flats and 
use vice-grips? Don't have time to go get the proper key.

preparing to be educated.... ;-)


Ewan Hopkins


>From: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
>Reply-To: "Larry" <rocco16v@netzero.com>
>To: "Ewan Hopkins" <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>, <rapieper@yahoo.com>, 
><jnbjones@boulder.net>, <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
>Date: Thu, 28 Mar 2002 18:30:50 -0800
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>offset ring spanner = box-end wrench, I believe.  (for you non-Brits)
>go easy on the chisel
>should work out
>Larry
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ewan Hopkins <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>
>To: <rapieper@yahoo.com>; <jnbjones@boulder.net>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 2:18 AM
>Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
>
>
> > IME, as long as you remember to loosen the top nut before you remove the
> > strut from the car, it's a piece of cake. I have done it many times 
>using
>an
> > offset ring spanner and an allen key with a piece of pipe for extra
>leverage
> > - worked every time. A few taps on the nut with a hammer & chisel will
>help
> > to loosen the thread.  If you undo the nut most of the way up the shaft
> > before removing the strut then it generally makes life easier. As for
> > removing the shock from the strut, gentle bashing with a hammer on the
>side
> > and top of the cap will also help to loosen the thread. Not too hard on
>the
> > sides mind you - going hell for leather with a 2lb mash hammer might 
>just
> > distort it a bit!
> >
> > HTH,
> >
> > Ewan Hopkins
> > '85 Storm 2.0
> > '86 GT 1.8
> > '87 GT 1.6
> >
> > >From: Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com>
> > >To: Jason Jones <jnbjones@boulder.net>, scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > >Subject: Re: upper strut nut question...
> > >Date: Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:13:27 -0800 (PST)
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> > >From scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org Wed, 27 Mar 2002 13:19:03 -0800
> > >Message-ID: <20020327211327.16889.qmail@web10306.mail.yahoo.com>
> > >In-Reply-To: <3CA21BA2.903E92B9@boulder.net>
> > >Sender: scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org
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> > >
> > >--- Jason Jones <jnbjones@boulder.net> wrote:
> > > > I am about to undertake my first strut replacement and am worried
> > > > about
> > > > being able to remove these nuts.  Is it impossible to do without an
> > > > impact wrench?
> > >
> > >No, but it's far easier with one.
> > >
> > > >Also, I was thinking it would be safer/easier to get
> > > > leverage if I were to use the spring compressor with the strut still
> > > > on
> > > > the car and then once the nut is loosened remove the strut and
> > > > proceed.
> > > > Any issues with this?
> > >
> > >Hmmm...tight fit...too tight...BTDT.
> > >
> > >Here's what I've done in the absence of having the "right" tool.  I
> > >found the right sized socket, and ground a few flats into the sides, so
> > >a Kentucky Fit-All (or vice-grips) would fit.  Through the square hole,
> > >I put the allen wrench, with a pipe or something to gain the required
> > >torque.  Just loosen it a bit.
> > >
> > >Or, preferably, get the right tool.
> > >
> > >Then remove the strut, install compressors, and go to town.  YOu can
> > >grab the shaft if you have to, since it's scrap anyway.  Trust me
> > >though, that steel is sooo hard that not many hand tools will touch it,
> > >so success has limited potential.
> > >
> > >AFA getting the nut that holds the shock off (you didn't ask, but...) ,
> > >put the strut (sans spring) back onto the hub carrier, and let the car
> > >help you out.  Put large channellocks on the nut.  Put a loong (3' or
> > >4') cheater bar on the outside (longer) handle of the channellocks, and
> > >gronk away.  It *will* loosen.  Remember, heat is your friend.
> > >
> > > > Also, would a shop be
> > > > inclined to swap the cartridges for me even if I didn't purchase 
>them
> > > > from them and if so, what would be an appropriate charge?
> > >
> > >That all depends on the shop!  Try an automotive machine shop that
> > >doesn't sell so much.  Figure 1 hour's work...what, $40, $50?
> > >
> > >=====
> > >Cheapass Ron
> > >"Victor" '87 16V Scirocco
> > >"Teufelhasen" '93 Cabby <-For sale
> > >
> > >If it ain't foggy, TURN OFF YOUR FOG LIGHTS.
> > >
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> >
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