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Re: Emissions



On Fri, 15 Aug 97 10:29:22 EST "Paul Krucke"
<pkrucke@logistics.calibersys.com> writes:
>     Hypothetically speaking.  If I were converting my 16v to a full 
>race car, non-street legal, would removing all emission controls be 
>good or bad.  By that I mean, was the engine designed to operate in lieu

>of these restrictions, and removing them potentially do more harm 
>than good.

Hmm, well, see, all you really need to remove is the CAT. You can either
get a freeflow CAT or leave the straight pipe on. 
Some of the racing gurus are finding that some of the new rules in some
racing sanctions which require the use of CATS and mufflers actually
enhance the HP! (Especially the Midget racers) So not only are you doing
your little enviro friendly attaboy part but your also gaining HP. 
Whether or not this will prove to be true on your 16V, I aint gotta clue.
 :)



>     Also, what I am getting at is a simplified engine/engine 
>compartment, no charcole canister, and direct fuel tank venting.  Taking
a 
>     minimilistic approach what are the minimum devices needed to make 
>a VW 1.8 16v run great?  I grew up working on the Air Cooled VW's 
>where all you need is fuel and spark.  How simplified can I go on Fuel 
>injected CIS-E VW?

I suppose you could remove those items but they in no way take away from
the performance of the motor. Id be inclined to just leave them on the
car and remove other non-essentials from the car.

CIS-E:

its my understanding that CIS-E was good up to about 170hp. So until you
are making HP more than that, id leave it alone. 


>     BTW, I once saw a 16v Scirocco with side draft carburetors.  How 
>would something like this run?


A few weeks ago I went to my local Nascar track. I bumped into my fellow
autox buddy Todd going into the pits. We had both seen a "Chevy Lumina
that was powered by a 1815cc "SCIROCCO" engine. (That's what the program
called it.) Basically it was a tubular chassis with a smaller sized
Lumina body on it. The engine was mated to a Ford tranny and powered the
rear wheels. It was an 8V and it had the dual side draft setup. The kid
(Who didn't know anything) said it had about 220hp. It was a trick setup
but I don't understand why they went with an 8V motor? The rules are
setup so that your car has to weigh a certain weight to cubic inches
ratio. There were honda 16V's running so why not the VW motor, which BTW
had a Motronic block (According to the Potterman.) code RV.
Up until he cut a tire, he was dominating the heat and main event, FYI.

OK, That's my story, back to your question. If your building a full race
car, obviously you will want to do all of the upgrade machine work on the
motor as you can. (Budget and cash allowing of course.) The only real
problem with using the dual carb setup is you are constantly having to
adjust them. There's no ox sensor to dial in and change jets so in order
for you to constantly get the most from the motor at all times, you must
become a weatherman. knowing what to use with different weather
conditions becomes very important. 
Other than that, they're great. (and expensive)
HTH!

Shawn Meze
86' Jetta GLi
82' Scirocco GTi
The Fastest, Quickest, Cleanest and
best looking Scirocco in all of San Diego! 
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