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Fuseblock connector question



Hey,

The X circuit is actually not switched 12V.  It is the load reduction relay 
circuit and supplies power with the key in the "ON" position but loses 
power while cranking.

D19 is a common pin to show damage on the fuseblock and plastic plug 
(melted).  Typically, if the wire has gotten hot enough to damage the 
plastic plug or fusepanel, you will have great difficulty in removing it 
from the plastic plug.  Which means you'll want to have a spare "D" plug, 
spare terminal for the wire, and while you are at it, upgrade the wire gage 
to 14.  It wouldn't be too difficult to reach behind the fuse panel and 
pull the blue plug.  Check D19 -- I am sure you will find that the 
surrounding plastic is melted.  You can also fairly easily reach up behind 
the heater control switch and pull the female plug off to check for damage 
(another given pretty much....melted.....).

It sounds like you don't want to tinker with things before Cincy though, so 
why not remove the switch (female side) from behind the heater fan controls 
until you get a chance to change out fuse panels and take a good look at 
the wiring?  Obviously you'd want to wrap up the switch with electrical 
tape etc and zip tie it out of the way.  Then after Cincy you can take the 
wiring apart at your own leisure......

Just a thought.

Kirsten


At 09:23 AM 5/13/2006, C Boyko wrote:
>I'm tackling a few misc. wiring issues on Klaus, he has a few oddities that
>I thought I should be correct.
>
>So first, the heater fan stays on all the time, key in/out, does not
>matter. (PITA, because it drains the battery) It's supposed to go into the
>X track, which is switched power I'm pretty sure. Anyway, I thought I'd
>find a splice in the wire to constant power, but no, the black/red wire
>runs right from the switch to D19 with no splice or obvious wierdness. So,
>is this most likely a problem with the connector or the fuseblock itself? I
>was hoping to wait till after Cincy to do the new fuseblock, but if that's
>the most likely source of current going to the wrong place, I'll swap it
>out now. Also, my wipers are in a similar "always on" condition, that's the
>same connector too. So something's up with "D". Advice is welcome, I won't
>have it buttoned back up for a day or so I don't imagine.
>
>Thanks, Cathy
>
>
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