Fuseblock connector question

[roccit_53 at scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca (C Boyko)]

Yeah, I realized that I'd stated that wrongly, and have since determined
that my load reduction relay was non functional which is why the fan was
not turning off, and it's working fine now. So I've replaced it and have
all the devices I wanted working, working. In the process, I have lost the
wipers, and the blinkers are in a constant state of fast blinking, with
only the RR corner working. So I'm taking a break. I'll go out and check to
see if I fried the bulbs somehow, which is worrisome. The old load
reduction relay showed signs of "customizing", so it was probably screwed
for some time. The other thing I did was to caniballize the rear defrost
for use as switched /load reduced power, and I still need to bypass the
switch to that. That seems to be working fine.  And I didn't find any sign
of melted stuff, except thed a nice smell of toasted plastic in the relay.

So what do you think messed up my blinkers/windshield wipers?
Likeky I knocked something loose, I hope...
Cathy

On 3:44:30 pm 05/13/06 Kirsten Jensen <kirsten@funksoulkitty.org> wrote:
> Hey,
>
> The X circuit is actually not switched 12V.  It is the load reduction
> relay circuit and supplies power with the key in the "ON" position
> but loses power while cranking.
>
> D19 is a common pin to show damage on the fuseblock and plastic plug
> (melted).  Typically, if the wire has gotten hot enough to damage the
> plastic plug or fusepanel, you will have great difficulty in removing
> it from the plastic plug.  Which means you'll want to have a spare
> "D" plug, spare terminal for the wire, and while you are at it,
> upgrade the wire gage to 14.  It wouldn't be too difficult to reach
> behind the fuse panel and pull the blue plug.  Check D19 -- I am sure
> you will find that the surrounding plastic is melted.  You can also
> fairly easily reach up behind the heater control switch and pull the
> female plug off to check for damage (another given pretty
> much....melted.....).
> It sounds like you don't want to tinker with things before Cincy
> though, so why not remove the switch (female side) from behind the
> heater fan controls until you get a chance to change out fuse panels
> and take a good look at the wiring?  Obviously you'd want to wrap up
> the switch with electrical tape etc and zip tie it out of the way.
> Then after Cincy you can take the wiring apart at your own
> leisure......
> Just a thought.
>
> Kirsten
>
>
> At 09:23 AM 5/13/2006, C Boyko wrote:
> > I'm tackling a few misc. wiring issues on Klaus, he has a few
> > oddities that I thought I should be correct.
> >
> > So first, the heater fan stays on all the time, key in/out, does not
> > matter. (PITA, because it drains the battery) It's supposed to go
> > into the X track, which is switched power I'm pretty sure. Anyway,
> > I thought I'd find a splice in the wire to constant power, but no,
> > the black/red wire runs right from the switch to D19 with no splice
> > or obvious wierdness. So, is this most likely a problem with the
> > connector or the fuseblock itself? I was hoping to wait till after
> > Cincy to do the new fuseblock, but if that's the most likely source
> > of current going to the wrong place, I'll swap it out now. Also, my
> > wipers are in a similar "always on" condition, that's the same
> > connector too. So something's up with "D". Advice is welcome, I
> > won't have it buttoned back up for a day or so I don't imagine.
> > Thanks, Cathy
> >
> >
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