[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Shine rear swaybar dimension & metallurgical advice needed + (ATTN: Ron P.
I can only offer two observations:
a) In the tiny bit of time I've driven Ben's MkI, I can say that it handles
like no other A1 I've ever driven, it really does feel like it's on rails.
I'm not that skilled as a driver, but it really is point and go. And does
it ever get there.
b) MkI Mark put that Shine bar on in my garage. Afterwards, the car just
didn't lift like a normal A1. Can't tell you exactly what was different,
but it just looked VERY different being lifted. And remember, 90% of what I
ever jack up is A1 chassis. This has to indicate a change in chassis
stiffness.
Cathy
On 1:02 pm 08/08/06 Ben <vwtype53@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Handling characteristics? Well, it's a bit subjective and totally
> depends on the rest of the car's suspension setup... but I love that
> bar. Ron and I made several bars... I put one on my Black mk2 (now
> Don's car) and one on my Mk1... this bar was added to the rear axle in
> addition to the stock 16v rear bar, so needless to say the rear axle
> has been made much more rigid. Just like the Shine bar, the Ron and
> Ben bar reduces the tendancy of the rear axle to twist. I can't say
> for certain, but Ron and I were thinking that our bar is, in theory,
> doing practically the same thing as the Shine bar. Obviously, our
> bar isn't quite as pretty, but it was much less expensive! And
> staying true to the Cheapass Ron (R) mentality... function comes first!
> ;)
>
> I have been racing my Mk1 for several years now, and combined with
> coilovers and other goodies this rear bar has made my car amazingly
> neutral handling (for a FWD car that is). On the street I can dive
> into a corner and lift off the throttle and the back end will gently
> start to come around (if I get back onto the throttle of course!).
> My biggest goal was to reduce understeer and not end up with
> terrifying snap oversteer. On the track my mk1 is very well behaved.
> I have been told from outside observers that my car rarely lifts the
> inside rear wheel and looks very flat in the corners. When I do push
> it around corners I tend to feel the car slide all 4 wheels, not just
> understeer like it used to.
>
> Suspension is so difficult to dial in, and everyone seems to have
> different results... so take my experience for what it's worth. But
> without any doubt I noticed a difference with the homemade rear bar.
>
> Ben
>
>
>
>
> --- Jason <verboten@michiganvw.org> wrote:
>
> > this is bolted to the front of teh trailing arm?
> >
> > what handling characteristics does it give the car?
> >
> > On 8/5/06, Don Walter <dswalterwi@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > I think I have one of those on the Black Scirocco I bought from
> > > Ben Harder.
> > > If anyone needs pictures let me know and I'll take some.
> > >
> > > On 8/5/06, Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > 2.5" U channel, 5/8" depth, 5/16" thick.
> > > >
> > > > Can't upload to my corner of Al's space...so here's what I had
> > > > written:
> > > > -qty. (4) 3/8-16 bolts, 1" long, with nuts, washers,
> > > lockwashers, all SAE
> > > > Grade 8 (forgive us for
> > > > not using Metric-sized fasteners)
> > > > -We drilled two 3/8" dia. holes in each end, 1" in from the end
> > > (therefore
> > > > 39" apart), 0.75" in
> > > > from the sides (therefore 1" apart, centered in the channel).
> > > > -For protection, I like Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer (even
> > > > though the metal was not rusty), then
> > > > some Rustoleum Hammer Finish paint. I chose gray. You go
> > > > nuts. -The bar was positioned as shown on the leading edge of
> > > the trailing arm,
> > > > centered fore/aft and
> > > > side/side. It was clamped in place with C-clamps and the hole
> > > locations in
> > > > the bar were
> > > > transferred to the trailing arm.
> > > > -The material in the trailing arm is not as nasty as we'd been
> > > > led to believe. You can go through
> > > > with the 3/8" drill without pilot drilling; however pilot
> > > > drilling will increase accuracy as the
> > > > 3/8" drill may want to wander a bit, even if the location has
> > > > been centerpunched or centerdrilled.
> > > >
> > > > -We then bolted the rearmost hole first, then the
> > > > forwardmost, for each side.
> > > > -Done.
> > > >
> > > > The cool thing about this bar is that it takes no welding or
> > > > other fabricating, just hacksawing
> > > > and drilling. Ben and I wanted to make sure that anyone could
> > > > build one of these, and we've met
> > > > that goal. Also, differing rates of torsional stiffness can
> > > > be acheived simply by changing the
> > > > spec of the bar...use a different size piece of channel. We
> > > > decided on the bolt pattern so that
> > > > we could go to different sizes easily, and swap bars between
> > > > our cars.
> > > > HTH
> > > >
> > > > Ron
> > > >
> > > > --- Allyn <amalventano1@tds.net> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > IIRC, it was either 2" or 2.5" 'u' channel.
> > > > > Al
> > > > >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Scirocco-l mailing list
> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l