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Re: starting problems (still) Was: will start, but won't stay running



CIS, and there's no knock sensor. It's a 2L aba 8v counterflow (that's what the head with the intake and exhaust on the same side is right?) so it doesn't need one as far as I know. If you havn't figured out already, I'm still learning here so keep that in mind :)
Thanks,
-Nate

----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Wagner" <dagnamit@gmail.com>
To: "Nathan Lowe" <nathanlowe@charter.net>
Cc: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: starting problems (still) Was: will start, but won't stay running


What management system, CIS, CIS-e?

If CIS-e the ground circuit may have gone bad in the knock box.

Brian


On Thu, 13 Jan 2005 11:55:14 -0500, Nathan Lowe <nathanlowe@charter.net> wrote:
I'm still stumped on this problem.
Background: the car is a '79 with a 2l aba swap. It will start fine but when I turn the key from "start" to "run" it dies. I have so far tried changing the ignition switch, jumpering the fuel pump relay, hotwiring at the connector on the ignition switch, and checking the engine bay for fuel/air leaks and loose electrical contacts. Nothing has made a difference. Symptoms: If I hold the key just before it switches to the "run" position, it will stay running (not too smooth, but ok) and the starter will not stay engaged. The same thing happens when I hotwire the car using the method in the Sealey book (on connector for ignition switch: terminals 30 to 50, then 30 to 15 when started). When I keep terminals 30, 50, and 15 all connected it runs ok (but not great) and the starter does not grind, but when I remove terminal 50 (like you are supposed to do) then it dies.

I'm open to ideas of what to do next. Any suggestions of things I can do, reccomendations of local mechanics (I'm in Laurel, MD) who will come out to look at it, or local listers who want to make a few bucks and get some free beer to come help me out would all be appreciated.

-Nate
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