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frozen crankshaft sprocket bolt



I had this problem too. I went through several cans of PB-Blaster,
Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc. Spent a couple hours using my cheap impact
wrench until I was out of air, then waiting for the compressor to
re-fill the tank, and repeat. Didn't have the guts to completely snap my
breaker bar, but I must've been close. It was bent over like a fishing
pole with a trophy bass on the line. After nearly a week of trying
everything, I went to Sears and spent big-$$$ on the most bad-a$$ impact
gun they had. It's a Craftsman model, but identical to an Ingersoll-Rand
model they also had except for the label.

Anyway, I got it home, hooked up the air line, put on a socket, and 5
seconds later I had the bolt out. No drama. No fight. Just
"VVVVVVRRROOOOT"!!

Sometimes, you just gotta have the RIGHT tool, I guess. That was the
most expensive bolt on my car, but damn it, I got it out!

And BTW, if you're gonna heat anything, heat the CRANK, not the bolt!
But I don't know if I would do that either...

Neal

On Wed, 2003-09-03 at 07:48, Dave wrote:
>    There are lots of great  "stuck crankshaft sprocket bolt" solutions available on this site especially the "crankshaft seal fun!" threads, and believe me, I tried each and every one, but I cannot get the motherf.uh,  I mean, the gosh darn thing off!  
> 
>  
> 
>      Its a 1984 'rocco with a 1.8.  
> 
>  
> 
>      Here's what I've tried so far, each of them with and without liberal applications of heat and blood.  
> 
>  
> 
> 1.      Factory stock breaker bar, oil pan off and  crankshaft locked with a block of wood between crank counterweights and the side of the engine block (the side closest to the front-end). Heated bolt for about 10 minutes with MAPP gas.
> 
>  
> 
> RESULTS: Splintered wood, amused neighbors.
> 
>  
> 
> 2.      Modifed breaker bar  (6 foot galvanized pipe cheater bar, powder coated blue, poly thread caps,  etc.)  and also an upgrade kit for the  piece of wood which consisted of a lead dead-blow hammer. The hammer's head fit perfectly sideways against the counterweights and the side of the block.  The breaker bar affair  was braced  with jackstands where the socket met the bolt  and where the breaker bar met the socket.  The bolt was again heated.  I leaned about 90 pounds on the end of the 6 foot bar, generating about 500 ft-lbs. of torque.  
> 
>  
> 
> RESULTS: Thankfully,  nothing.  I was unsure of the amount of force required to crack the block, and chickened out at 500 ft-lbs.  Should I just go for this? With a friend or two, I could easily put a few ft.-tons on the bolt. Its not my car, so I'm a little paranoid.
> 
>  
> 
> 3.      Breaker bar on the bolt and bump the starter..  
> 
>  
> 
> RESULTS: Nothing. Stopped the starter dead in it's tracks.
> 
>  
> 
> 4.      Jack up the car and then lower its weight on to the bolt via the breaker bar. Heated the bolt.
> 
>  
> 
> RESULTS: Nothing.  Engine began to lift unpleasantly.
> 
>  
> 
> 5.      Pound on the breaker bar (again braced with the jackstands) using a sledgehammer.  Heated the f****ng bolt.
> 
>  
> 
> RESULTS: Nothing, and this one really felt like it was working.
> 
>  
> 
> 6.      Impact wrench.  Heated the bolt.  This was a normal sized gun that probably didn't have a hell of a lot of torque, but did break a cheapo non-impact socket. 
> 
>  
> 
> RESULTS: Nothing, but at least that socket won't be busting anyones knuckles.  I might go rent a bigger gun (and use a proper impact socket)  if I can find a place that'll rent one.
> 
>  
> 
>      Anyways, there you go.  I am totally open to any comments, flames, or death threats regarding this problem.  Again, when I say I heated the bolt, I mean for about 10 minutes with MAPP gas.  Perhaps it needs more? (Oxy-Acetylene?)   Thanks man!
> 
>  
> 
> --Dave
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-- 
Neal Tovsen <nealtovsen@yahoo.com>