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frozen crankshaft sprocket bolt



Thanks for all of your responses, and I totally agree that Anson's was by
far the best, except that the ranch dressing seems to have a low boiling
point.  Does Autotech sell a ranch dressing cooler? (Don't laugh, if anyone
does, it is them)  OR... can I buy DOT 4 ranch dressing?  Do I need to flush
out the Hidden Valley dressing first?

Actually, the main idea of the heat was to melt the German krazy glue thread
locker from hell, but I also tried it without the heat, not that it makes up
for any of the stupid shit I've tried so far to get that bolt. God only
knows what's happening to the bolt / thread / keyway tolerances, keep those
spare JH cranks around, might have a sale for you.

I'm going to try Neal's suggestion because it involves buying tools, which
is not as fun as a Britney Spears video, but gets me out of working on that
goddamn car for a little while.

Thanks again!

--Dave

"If it ain't broke, break it."

Next week:  Deperately need help! My MFA says "Kraft __le Ch_es"

----- Original Message -----
From: Dave <droe@accesscom.com>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 4:48 AM
Subject: frozen crankshaft sprocket bolt


>    There are lots of great  "stuck crankshaft sprocket bolt" solutions
available on this site especially the "crankshaft seal fun!" threads, and
believe me, I tried each and every one, but I cannot get the motherf.uh,  I
mean, the gosh darn thing off!
>
>
>
>      Its a 1984 'rocco with a 1.8.
>
>
>
>      Here's what I've tried so far, each of them with and without liberal
applications of heat and blood.
>
>
>
> 1.      Factory stock breaker bar, oil pan off and  crankshaft locked with
a block of wood between crank counterweights and the side of the engine
block (the side closest to the front-end). Heated bolt for about 10 minutes
with MAPP gas.
>
>
>
> RESULTS: Splintered wood, amused neighbors.
>
>
>
> 2.      Modifed breaker bar  (6 foot galvanized pipe cheater bar, powder
coated blue, poly thread caps,  etc.)  and also an upgrade kit for the
piece of wood which consisted of a lead dead-blow hammer. The hammer's head
fit perfectly sideways against the counterweights and the side of the block.
The breaker bar affair  was braced  with jackstands where the socket met the
bolt  and where the breaker bar met the socket.  The bolt was again heated.
I leaned about 90 pounds on the end of the 6 foot bar, generating about 500
ft-lbs. of torque.
>
>
>
> RESULTS: Thankfully,  nothing.  I was unsure of the amount of force
required to crack the block, and chickened out at 500 ft-lbs.  Should I just
go for this? With a friend or two, I could easily put a few ft.-tons on the
bolt. Its not my car, so I'm a little paranoid.
>
>
>
> 3.      Breaker bar on the bolt and bump the starter..
>
>
>
> RESULTS: Nothing. Stopped the starter dead in it's tracks.
>
>
>
> 4.      Jack up the car and then lower its weight on to the bolt via the
breaker bar. Heated the bolt.
>
>
>
> RESULTS: Nothing.  Engine began to lift unpleasantly.
>
>
>
> 5.      Pound on the breaker bar (again braced with the jackstands) using
a sledgehammer.  Heated the f****ng bolt.
>
>
>
> RESULTS: Nothing, and this one really felt like it was working.
>
>
>
> 6.      Impact wrench.  Heated the bolt.  This was a normal sized gun that
probably didn't have a hell of a lot of torque, but did break a cheapo
non-impact socket.
>
>
>
> RESULTS: Nothing, but at least that socket won't be busting anyones
knuckles.  I might go rent a bigger gun (and use a proper impact socket)  if
I can find a place that'll rent one.
>
>
>
>      Anyways, there you go.  I am totally open to any comments, flames, or
death threats regarding this problem.  Again, when I say I heated the bolt,
I mean for about 10 minutes with MAPP gas.  Perhaps it needs more?
(Oxy-Acetylene?)   Thanks man!
>
>
>
> --Dave
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>