frozen crankshaft sprocket bolt

[txrocco at sbcglobal.net (ATS - Patrick Bureau)]

well I Have not experience this problem. but if you need a crank from an 8v
JH with the bolt out, I have a pair.. in good shape...

now how I take mine out is odd compared to everyone else I am sure... but it
work every time...I put the engine on the stand, I  then I place the rear pp
bolts back on 2 is enough... wedge a long 1/2 extension between the bolts
and the frame of the engine stand, and then I simply unbolt the front bolt
with a 1/2 wrench and extension on the handle (about 4 ft)...

it take a lot of pressure to "crack" that bolt open.... Try putting some PB
blaster 1-2 days in a row and letting it soak into it... probably help a
great deal as this stuff seeps into threads and loosens any rust you may
have..

PS: heat dilates steel, since this bolt is Inside a shaft.. your not helping
it but making it tighter.

ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
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=>-----Original Message-----
=>From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
=>[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Dave
=>Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 6:48 AM
=>To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
=>Subject: frozen crankshaft sprocket bolt
=>
=>
=>   There are lots of great  "stuck crankshaft sprocket bolt"
=>solutions available on this site especially the "crankshaft seal
=>fun!" threads, and believe me, I tried each and every one, but I
=>cannot get the motherf.uh,  I mean, the gosh darn thing off!
=>
=>
=>
=>     Its a 1984 'rocco with a 1.8.
=>
=>
=>
=>     Here's what I've tried so far, each of them with and without
=>liberal applications of heat and blood.
=>
=>
=>
=>1.      Factory stock breaker bar, oil pan off and  crankshaft
=>locked with a block of wood between crank counterweights and the
=>side of the engine block (the side closest to the front-end).
=>Heated bolt for about 10 minutes with MAPP gas.
=>
=>
=>
=>RESULTS: Splintered wood, amused neighbors.
=>
=>
=>
=>2.      Modifed breaker bar  (6 foot galvanized pipe cheater bar,
=>powder coated blue, poly thread caps,  etc.)  and also an upgrade
=>kit for the  piece of wood which consisted of a lead dead-blow
=>hammer. The hammer's head fit perfectly sideways against the
=>counterweights and the side of the block.  The breaker bar affair
=> was braced  with jackstands where the socket met the bolt  and
=>where the breaker bar met the socket.  The bolt was again heated.
=> I leaned about 90 pounds on the end of the 6 foot bar,
=>generating about 500 ft-lbs. of torque.
=>
=>
=>
=>RESULTS: Thankfully,  nothing.  I was unsure of the amount of
=>force required to crack the block, and chickened out at 500
=>ft-lbs.  Should I just go for this? With a friend or two, I could
=>easily put a few ft.-tons on the bolt. Its not my car, so I'm a
=>little paranoid.
=>
=>
=>
=>3.      Breaker bar on the bolt and bump the starter..
=>
=>
=>
=>RESULTS: Nothing. Stopped the starter dead in it's tracks.
=>
=>
=>
=>4.      Jack up the car and then lower its weight on to the bolt
=>via the breaker bar. Heated the bolt.
=>
=>
=>
=>RESULTS: Nothing.  Engine began to lift unpleasantly.
=>
=>
=>
=>5.      Pound on the breaker bar (again braced with the
=>jackstands) using a sledgehammer.  Heated the f****ng bolt.
=>
=>
=>
=>RESULTS: Nothing, and this one really felt like it was working.
=>
=>
=>
=>6.      Impact wrench.  Heated the bolt.  This was a normal sized
=>gun that probably didn't have a hell of a lot of torque, but did
=>break a cheapo non-impact socket.
=>
=>
=>
=>RESULTS: Nothing, but at least that socket won't be busting
=>anyones knuckles.  I might go rent a bigger gun (and use a proper
=>impact socket)  if I can find a place that'll rent one.
=>
=>
=>
=>     Anyways, there you go.  I am totally open to any comments,
=>flames, or death threats regarding this problem.  Again, when I
=>say I heated the bolt, I mean for about 10 minutes with MAPP gas.
=> Perhaps it needs more? (Oxy-Acetylene?)   Thanks man!
=>
=>
=>
=>--Dave
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