Battery Reloq. - wire size, routing, battery location etc.

[rapieper@yahoo.com (Ron Pieper)]

--- Brian Haygood <scirious@hotmail.com> wrote:
 > Now to pick out wire.  No way in heck I'm paying for 20+ feet of
wire
> at $4+
> per foot.  I have found 1/0 wire for $0.99/ft. (at
> http://tiewraps.com/batterycable.html), but I'm not sure if they
> require
> that you buy 100ft. lengths.  You can put fractional quantities in
> the order
> form, so probably.  I might go for 2guage ($0.75/ft) for the ground
> wire,
> since it is just a suplement for the body.  Any comments on this?   

Cool, I'm embarking on this too, we can share thoughts, research, etc.

OK...FWIW, I just did some research on this yesterday.  For an 18' run,
here are some voltage drops for 100A on a 12V system:
4AWG: 1.1V, 9.2%
2AWG: 0.7V, 5.8%   
1AWG: 0.55, 4.6%
0AWG: 0.43V, 3.6%

Shoot I didn't bookmark that page (search: voltage drop calculator). 
Summitt Racing has relocation kits but they all have 2AWG, and most of
those customer are v8 guys, so that should tell us something.  I'm
still undecided between 2AWG and 1AWG (not single-aught, but 1).

AFA wire, McMaster-Carr has welding cable which has a thicker
insulation and is much more flexible than 'normal' wire, $1.16/ft for
2AWG.
http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/3098.html
and they got the lugs right there too.

Now, AFA ground, there's bumper bolts nearby and the rear seltbelt
anchor, which is nearer.  I'm intending to use that one.  I'll use wire
left over from the long +12V run.

As for the battery, I have a $6 plastic battery box from Outdoor World
(Bass Pro Shops).  It's not sealed per se, but I'll work something up
and vent it anyway.  I'm using the spare tire well, and have cut a 19"
diameter piece of plywood that fits into the well bottom nicely.  I've
drilled a hole so it fits over the the big stud; a nut will help hold
it in place; maybe add some support around the edges but that means
going through the sheetmetal - yick.  I don't like to drill holes
through the car to the elements.  The battery box will then attach to
the wood.  That leaves me a flat-bottomed recessed area for tools, etc.
 Spare?  We don't need no stinking spare!  (well, it'll sit elsewhere).

I bought marine battery post clamps.  They have a stud to attach the
wire, so I'll need some lugs to crimp onto the wire, which I like.

Routing - dunno.  I've seen Shannon Fenton's page (www.scirocco16V.com)
and will evaluate that.  I do think the center tunnel is best, from
there, I don't know if it matters whether I go left or right (I'm
leanng left (driver's) side, but using the old, unused A/C line holes
in the firewall is something I've seen before.  Maybe go through the
firewall near the fuse box or steering column, then over the tranny and
to the starter?  Shorter is better, but what will that save, a foot? 
Worth it?  hmmmm...I could get some shielding...

Anyway, your thoughts/replies/better ideas are welcome...

=====
Cheapass Ron
"Victor" '87 16V Scirocco
"Teufelhasen" '93 Cabby <-For sale

If it ain't foggy, TURN OFF YOUR FOG LIGHTS.

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