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Welded diff, was: Diff talk...



Sounds interesting, let me/us know how it goes!
Anything sounds better than the thought of having to shell out for 2 quaifes
for the twin project.
Al

Allyn Malventano, ETC(SS), USN
87 Rieger GTO Scirocco 16v (daily driver, 170k, rocco #6)
86 Kamei Twin 16V Turbo Scirocco GTX (shell donor ready to rock, still
planning, rocco #7)
87 Jetta 8v Wolfsburg 2dr (daily driver, 260k, 0 rattles, original clutch,
driveshafts, wheels :)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Scirocco-Al" <scirocco-Al@insight.rr.com>
To: "Josh Hignight" <Josh.Hignight@phoenix.edu>; "'scirocco'"
<scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 11:32 PM
Subject: Welded diff, was: Diff talk...


> I saw someone doing this with a Nissan Sentra SE-R for auto-x.  The car
> seemed to go very well.  However if you do this the car will push like a
pig
> in the first part of a corner, or the part where you are not on the gas,
> because both the inside and outside wheel will be turning the same speed.
>
> I bought a limited slip from OMP a few years ago.  Basically all they did
> was put 2 metal blocks betweent he spider gears with springs in between
> them.  It seems like a good idea but the materials they used are crap.
> Their metal blocks are way too soft to be rubbing on case hardened gears.
> In the 4 years I've owned it I've had to rebuild it twice.  In 1 season of
> Auto-x and only driving it to the local events the blocks had 0.05" of
wear
> on each face.  This is enough to relieve the spring pressure on the gears
> and make it useless.  Mileage was less then 300 miles and I did 5 to 7
> events, 5/6 runs each.  This diff might be OK for roadrace use but is not
up
> to Auto-x duty.
>
>   I'm getting ready to put it back into the car again.  This time I've
> designed my own blocks and made them out of A2 tool steel.  They have been
> heat treated to 48/50 rockwell, so they will be harder than the original
> 1018 steel blocks that it came with, but not hard enough to hurt the
gears.
> I've also made the design so as to be able to use the factory diff parts
> with it (springs, brass ring, circlip).  If it works I'll be happy to
> forward the Auto-cad prints.  You'l need to find a machine shop to make it
> for you.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Josh Hignight" <Josh.Hignight@phoenix.edu>
> To: "'scirocco'" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2002 4:28 PM
> Subject: Diff talk...
>
>
> > So has anyone ever thought of taking they're diff out, welding the
housing
> > shut around the spider gears, tapping a hole and plug into it, and
filling
> > it with, oh say, 50,000wt silicon oil? Liquid limited slip diff with 0
> > breakable limited slip parts (besides leaks)....
> >
> >
> > Hey, it works good on my 1:10 scale truck!
> >
> > Joshua Hignight
> > Student Services/Technical Services
> > New Mexico Campus
> > (505) 821-4800
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> >
>
>
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