Temps still getting too high

[jdbubb@ix.netcom.com (Dan Bubb)]

I personally think all this bleeding and air bubble stuff is a waste of
time on an 8V. I don't know about 16V's but I suspect I'll find out soon
since I just bought one with a cooked engine.
As far as 8V's I've been driving them since '76, always done my own work
and NEVER once have I had to do anything other than put coolant in the
expansion tank. Hold the revs up a little until coolant comes out of the
radiator to expansion tank vent line and you're done. 
What's the deal?
Dan

T Berk wrote:
> 
> peter wrote:
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org
> > [mailto:scirocco-l-admin@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of Ken B
> > Sent: Monday, August 19, 2002 12:01 AM
> > To: List
> > Subject: Re: Temps still getting too high
> >
> > Could someone brief me on the reason for driling the T-sat and where
> > exactly
> > you do that.  I keep hearing about it but...?
> > Thanks
> >
> > Ken
> > 1979 Scirocco  "McFly"
> > 16v conversion "...it's working....It's WORKING...!"
> > tracing electrical gremlins now...
> > VORTEX:  "Indiana Red"
> >
> > You drill it, so that you can vent the system when you change, or drain
> > the  antifreeze. It helps to avoid the pocket of air, that can cause all
> > kinds of havoc.
> >
> > I drill 2 small holes on the stationary lip of the thermostat.
> >
> > Peter
> >
> 
> As a differing opinion:
> 
> I had followed the old, old t-stat I had years ago:
> 
> There was a hole in the face of the movable part, it had in it a brass
> cylinder (pellet) that was flatten on one end as if crimped with a pair
> of pliers and after being inserted into the hoe the other end was also
> flattened, but in a 90 degree alignment. Think of those Pixie Stix that
> are made from a soda straw flattened closed on both ends or the juice
> packs you see in school lunches; one end is flattened respective to 90
> degrees rotated along the long axis.
> 
> In any case the pellet was inserted to limit the flow of liquid but
> allow the passing of air bubbles.
> 
> Drill two holes of a size around a carpenter's pencil lead diameter (my
> measuring devices are outside at the moment). Smallish is OK, but too
> large means you diminish the ability of the motor to regulate it's temp
> including warming up.
> 
> Other folks have stuck an aspirin or two under the wedged open plate of
> the t-stat on the theory that they would dissolve after the liquid had
> ben poured in, I can't recommend this one but it _sounds_, well, sound.
> 
> The acidic nature of aspirin has a skeptical nature attached to it
> though. (It's just a little pellet but still).
> 
> When filling the system air likes to remain in the motor's block and can
> help overheating problems due to lack of coolant on the hottest parts
> inside the motor; it's top end.
> 
> Another tip is to fill via the upper hose into the block, back filing so
> to speak.
> 
> Besides allowing for proper heat dumping via air pocket reduction and
> radiator size you should also consider the water pumps' impellers maybe
> worn and  don't flow enough liquid and/or the coating in the motor/
> coolant system that can be removed with a purge// cleaning. Recent
> success has been gained wit Purple Power degreaser (similar to Simple
> Green) but long term affects have yet to be determined, re: rubber hose
> and/or seals being stripped of softening agents). I bought some and used
> in both my own 81 Roc w/ 10:1 motor AND 'my Buddy AL's' Firebird which
> was suffering from the same coagulated coolant mismatch of coolant type
> VWs have been known to battle.
> 
> TBerk
> Ashanti's manager turns out to be my oldest sister. Who knew she'd blow
> up so big after 13 years of shepherding? "You mean _that_ Ashanti?"
> What ever you do, have a commitment to excellence.
> 
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