Re: Engine mounts R&R questions.

["Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>]

Damnit!!!
I ordered these from Adirondack, and they didn't mention a thing about
pre-pressed brackets.  Crap.  The first time I decided not to order
something from Potterman, and I make more work for myself.  The VW gods must
be loving that.

I vow never to order a part from anyone other than Mike Potter ever again.
Unless its Kristen Potter.

Marc

----- Original Message -----
From: "Allyn" <amalventano1@home.com>
To: "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>;
"Cheapass Ron Pieper" <rapieper@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: Engine mounts R&R questions.


> - preps:
> put the front end up on jackstands (you will need the jack for the
engine).
> remove wheels associated with the mount side you are changing.
> disconnect +12v.
> remove all belts, timing belt included.
> - front/rear:
> remove front and rear mounts (easy)
> - passenger side:
> support engine. loosten passenger side mount center bolt, raise engine
> slightly to ease removal of the bracket bolts (these require a hex driver,
6
> or 7 mm i think). Now lower engine low enough to remove the bracket/mount
> combo. Put new mount in bracket (see bottom). reinstall bracket. only
screw
> in the center bolt a few turns, dont torque unless the engine is where it
> needs to be (i.e. level), and you dont intend to move it any further (i.e.
> not changing trans mount). pivoting engine mount after torqued will
destroy
> the rubber and nullify your work.
> - driver side (trans):
> ensure passenger side mount is INSTALLED (you're about to undo the last
> thing holding it in if its not installed). also ensure the center bolt is
> NOT torqued (see above). remove lower strut tie bar (16v), if installed
> (between the a-arms). You will have to drop the transmission side of the
> engine beyond where this bar will let it go. This is to get the mount
> bracket bolts to clear the frame as you try to remove them. It also allows
> easier removal of the ground strap from the mount bracket. It is suggested
> that you remove this bar FIRST, before unbolting any part of the mount
> (safety). You will be way under the engine getting this bar off. Ok,
enough
> about the damn bar (heh), once its off, support engine, remove the center
> mount bolt (easier if battery is removed). lower trans side of engine
until
> you can get to the bracket bolts from the wheel well. Remove ground strap
> from mount bracket. Remove bracket-to-tranny nuts/bolts (note: some have
> nuts spot welded to bracket, some dont). Put new mount in bracket (again,
> see below). Reinstall. When putting everything together, be sure you have
> the center mount bolt in before you go fumbling around under the engine
> trying to get the lower strut tie bar back in (i dont want anyone killing
> themselves over an engine mount :).
> - the changing of the mount:
> ok, most dealerships now receive these things pre-installed in the
> appropriate bracket, so some dealerships have no clue how to press them in
> properly. The dealership i tried didnt even have the press kit for it
> anymore! Anyhow, find a nice WWII table mounted vice (the kind that
> resembles what buggs might drop on daffy). You will also need a hacksaw
(the
> kind with the wingnut to tighten the blade). Put the mount bracket in the
> vice (clamp it on a flat spot, not the circle that the mount is in). Take
> the blade off the hacksaw, run it through a hole in the rubber mount, near
> the outer ring. Put the hacksaw back together around the blade/mount
combo.
> Now starts the fun, commence the sawing. Be sure to oil the blade as you
> saw, especially with that first 1/8th of rubber you have to go through
> before you hit the outer ring. What you are trying to accomplish is to saw
> through the mounts outer metal ring without damaging the mount bracket.
You
> will have to be careful to saw evenly. Since you are going through 1" of
> metal, it will seem to take forever. You only have to go about 1/16th", so
> it wont take too long. When you make it through, the mount ring will try
to
> compress on the blade, so it will probably stop you from sawing
alltogether.
> Take the saw apart again, get the blade out of there, and tap the mount
out
> of the bracket (it will be VERY easy). Now you get to see just how strong
> your ghosen vice is. Put a thin layer of grease on the outer enge of the
new
> mount, to ease starting. Steal 2 pairs of ratchet extensions fron your
> neighbors. Each pair needs to be the same thickness. Use these 2 pairs as
> spacers on either side of the center mount pin so you can compress the
mount
> into the bracket without killing the mount. It wont be easy with this
> extension contraption, getting the mount started is the hardest part. As
you
> press further, it will get much harder. You will most likely need a 3'
pipe
> on that vice handle.
>
> Jeesh, im too wordy, hope this helps though.
> Al
>
> Allyn Malventano, ETC(SS), USN
> 87 Rieger GTO Scirocco 16v (daily driver, 170k, rocco #6) running - for
now
> 87 Jetta 8v Wolfsburg 2dr (daily driver, 260k, 0 rattles, original clutch,
> driveshafts, wheels :)
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>
> To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 1:12 PM
> Subject: Engine mounts R&R questions.
>
>
> > After watching my engine rock back and forth during the dyno day, it was
> > suggested that I replace all the motor mounts.  I went ahead and ordered
> > them.
> >
> > The one one the front, and the lower trans mount seem straight forward,
> but
> > the upper trans mount and the pass side mount seem weird.  Do you have
to
> > remove the mount holder thingie off the engine and then press the mount
> out?
> > It seems that to get the pass side mount holder off the engine, the
engine
> > would have to be either raised or dropped a good deal, 4+ inches.  On
the
> > upper trans mount (under the battery) the holder looks easier to get at,
> but
> > do you still need to press the mount out?
> >
> > I don't have a press. :(
> >
> > Help?
> >
> >
> > --
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>
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