Re: Engine mounts R&R questions.

["Allyn" <amalventano1@home.com>]

- preps:
put the front end up on jackstands (you will need the jack for the engine).
remove wheels associated with the mount side you are changing.
disconnect +12v.
remove all belts, timing belt included.
- front/rear:
remove front and rear mounts (easy)
- passenger side:
support engine. loosten passenger side mount center bolt, raise engine
slightly to ease removal of the bracket bolts (these require a hex driver, 6
or 7 mm i think). Now lower engine low enough to remove the bracket/mount
combo. Put new mount in bracket (see bottom). reinstall bracket. only screw
in the center bolt a few turns, dont torque unless the engine is where it
needs to be (i.e. level), and you dont intend to move it any further (i.e.
not changing trans mount). pivoting engine mount after torqued will destroy
the rubber and nullify your work.
- driver side (trans):
ensure passenger side mount is INSTALLED (you're about to undo the last
thing holding it in if its not installed). also ensure the center bolt is
NOT torqued (see above). remove lower strut tie bar (16v), if installed
(between the a-arms). You will have to drop the transmission side of the
engine beyond where this bar will let it go. This is to get the mount
bracket bolts to clear the frame as you try to remove them. It also allows
easier removal of the ground strap from the mount bracket. It is suggested
that you remove this bar FIRST, before unbolting any part of the mount
(safety). You will be way under the engine getting this bar off. Ok, enough
about the damn bar (heh), once its off, support engine, remove the center
mount bolt (easier if battery is removed). lower trans side of engine until
you can get to the bracket bolts from the wheel well. Remove ground strap
from mount bracket. Remove bracket-to-tranny nuts/bolts (note: some have
nuts spot welded to bracket, some dont). Put new mount in bracket (again,
see below). Reinstall. When putting everything together, be sure you have
the center mount bolt in before you go fumbling around under the engine
trying to get the lower strut tie bar back in (i dont want anyone killing
themselves over an engine mount :).
- the changing of the mount:
ok, most dealerships now receive these things pre-installed in the
appropriate bracket, so some dealerships have no clue how to press them in
properly. The dealership i tried didnt even have the press kit for it
anymore! Anyhow, find a nice WWII table mounted vice (the kind that
resembles what buggs might drop on daffy). You will also need a hacksaw (the
kind with the wingnut to tighten the blade). Put the mount bracket in the
vice (clamp it on a flat spot, not the circle that the mount is in). Take
the blade off the hacksaw, run it through a hole in the rubber mount, near
the outer ring. Put the hacksaw back together around the blade/mount combo.
Now starts the fun, commence the sawing. Be sure to oil the blade as you
saw, especially with that first 1/8th of rubber you have to go through
before you hit the outer ring. What you are trying to accomplish is to saw
through the mounts outer metal ring without damaging the mount bracket. You
will have to be careful to saw evenly. Since you are going through 1" of
metal, it will seem to take forever. You only have to go about 1/16th", so
it wont take too long. When you make it through, the mount ring will try to
compress on the blade, so it will probably stop you from sawing alltogether.
Take the saw apart again, get the blade out of there, and tap the mount out
of the bracket (it will be VERY easy). Now you get to see just how strong
your ghosen vice is. Put a thin layer of grease on the outer enge of the new
mount, to ease starting. Steal 2 pairs of ratchet extensions fron your
neighbors. Each pair needs to be the same thickness. Use these 2 pairs as
spacers on either side of the center mount pin so you can compress the mount
into the bracket without killing the mount. It wont be easy with this
extension contraption, getting the mount started is the hardest part. As you
press further, it will get much harder. You will most likely need a 3' pipe
on that vice handle.

Jeesh, im too wordy, hope this helps though.
Al

Allyn Malventano, ETC(SS), USN
87 Rieger GTO Scirocco 16v (daily driver, 170k, rocco #6) running - for now
87 Jetta 8v Wolfsburg 2dr (daily driver, 260k, 0 rattles, original clutch,
driveshafts, wheels :)



----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 1:12 PM
Subject: Engine mounts R&R questions.


> After watching my engine rock back and forth during the dyno day, it was
> suggested that I replace all the motor mounts.  I went ahead and ordered
> them.
>
> The one one the front, and the lower trans mount seem straight forward,
but
> the upper trans mount and the pass side mount seem weird.  Do you have to
> remove the mount holder thingie off the engine and then press the mount
out?
> It seems that to get the pass side mount holder off the engine, the engine
> would have to be either raised or dropped a good deal, 4+ inches.  On the
> upper trans mount (under the battery) the holder looks easier to get at,
but
> do you still need to press the mount out?
>
> I don't have a press. :(
>
> Help?
>
>
> --
> Email LIST problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org.
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>


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