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Re: (tech)2.0 L 16V Build.



not if you run the bubble block as opposed to a tall block then you need new
rods....
i have that setup 95.5 with stock rods and 83.5 mm pistons
jonas

----- Original Message -----
From: "MIKE BLAIN" <reptileis@home.com>
To: "Riley McDowall" <roog@telus.net>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 8:16 PM
Subject: Re: (tech)2.0 L 16V Build.


> Thats great info Riley.
>
> One of the things that I am completely in the dark about is - if I run a
TDI
> crank( 95.5mm), will the height requirements of the pistons change? as
well as
> the lengths of the valve stems?
>
>
> Riley McDowall wrote:
>
> > At 9:43 PM -0800 3/1/01, MIKE BLAIN wrote:
> > > Here is the goal-    2.0L 16 V - with 1.8L head, Scirocco 16V Exhaust
> > >Manifold, Polished Intake Manifold.    I want 180 hp (total) I want
more
> > >bottom end then top speed.  The car will be a daily driver for the most
> >
> > I know Brett's already mentioned this, but I dont' think you're going to
be
> > able to have your cake AND eat it too.  You can either have A) 180hp or
B)
> > a torquey daily driver.  Unless you get into nitrous or a
forced-induction
> > situation, you won't be able to maintain great torque characteristics at
> > reasonable rpms.  To get to 180hp, you'll need to get into cams that
> > sacrifice torque below 4000rpm.  Unfortunately, there's no way around
that,
> > especially if you plan on sticking with CIS-E.
> >
> > >I NEED
> > >1)Valves-   high performance?  what brands?  will the lengths change or
> > >stem thicknesses?
> >
> > Really the only option you have when it comes to valves is using
stainless
> > steel.  From what I recall, the advantage in using stainless valves is
> > their ability to stay clean - carbon doesn't build up on them like it
does
> > on the OE steel ones.  You might also be able to thin the stems down a
bit
> > when you port the head, but that's a really minor issue.
> >
> > >2) springs-
> >
> > The general consensus is to get either TT or Schrick valve springs if
you
> > plan on using cams more extreme than a 260.  You should look at the lift
> > numbers, but that's a rule of thumb that most people use.
> >
> > >3) cams. I want schricks-  should I run 276 or 286 or?   remember this
> > >is a daily driver.
> >
> > The biggest cams you can use while keeping your lifters hydraulic are
the
> > Schrick 276es.  If you care about beating people in stoplight drags,
don't
> > buy these cams :)  Get the 268s, or better yet, get an asymmetric set
(260
> > intake w/276 exhaust).  I can pretty much guarantee you'll like the
torque
> > characteristics of this set better than a set of 268s.  You don't have
to
> > use Schricks, either - I've got Pipers, and there's no reason why you
> > couldn't put together a similar set from what Kent offers.
> >
> > >4) crankshaft-  I heard something about getting the "diesel" crank.
and
> > >then something about a TDI? should I just maintain with the stock
crank?
> >
> > A TDI crankshaft might get you to 180hp + the torque you want.  I've
never
> > seen one dynoed though... Be aware that you'll sacrifice your high-rev
> > capability, though, and plan accordingly - get a set of torquey,
midrange
> > cams (like the Schrick 260s, or Autotech's, or the upcoming TT cams).
> >
> > >5)Lifters
> >
> > Just get new ones... peace of mind is good :)
> >
> > As far as the rest of the head goes, while you're getting it ported and
> > polished, make sure it gets a rebuild too.  New lifters, new cam chain,
new
> > springs (if necessary), new seals, etc.  The last thing you want to do
is
> > spend all this money and then have to go back into the head a month
later
> > to fix a failed lifter.
> >
> > The only other thing I can think of is a VW Motorsport head gasket.
It'll
> > raise your compression ratio, which will give you a bit more torque, but
> > will probably require at least 92 octane...
> >
> > HTH!
>
>
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