Re: Transaxle removal

[Brett Van Sprewenburg <brett@netacc.net>]

>I'm going to remove the tranny in my '88 16v this week in 
>preparation for a clutch job.  I've got a couple of questions before 
>I start.
>
>- Which components, not directly involved in the procedure, should 
>be removed.  I thought it might help to remove the left hand side 
>suspension to make the area easier to work in.  Is this a good/bad 
>idea?

Not necessary to remove the suspension, although you might find it helpful
to loosen up the drivers side ball joint and pop it out.  This makes it
easier to remove the drivers side drive shaft, although several people
have mentioned that if turn the wheel far enough it'll slip out.  It will
be helpful removing the lower stress bar though, and you might consider
replacing that expensive self adjusting clutch cable with a manual cable.

>
>- Does the engine have to be at TDC to remove the tranny?

No.

>
>- The clutch cable (self-adjusting) looks tricky to remove.  What is 
>the best way to do it?

Loosen it up all the way by turning the locking nut all the way down (towards
the ground) then turning the white plastic adjuster all the way down.  This
will generate plenty of slack and allow you to remove the retaining clip,
rectangle washer, and rubber bumper from the clutch arm...just push the
clutch arm up a bit.  It's easy.  Oh wait duh, this is for a manual cable,
there's something in the Bentley that describes how to loosen this I
think.  I'll look it up if you can't find it...and I can't remember how
I did it the last time either. :/

>
>- What are the hardest fasteners to get at/remove?  Any good tricks 
>gained for experience that can be passed on would be appreciated.

Without removing the fuel injection, probably the top two 19mm bolts holding
the engine to the transaxle.  After that, it's the drivers side motor mount
bolts, which can only be removed after you've tipped the engine/transaxle
down a bit.  I use support from above and below when doing this.  Jacking
on a board set under the oil pan, and one of those racheting straps
around the transaxle and a wooden crossbrace set between the inner fender
lips.  This way, even after the two start to separate, there's still
support for both and the weight of the transaxle doesn't rest on it's
input shaft that severely.  Oh, don't forget the slightly hidden 11mm
bolt up behind the passenger side drive flange...you'll find it.  There
might be two, one for a small plate, the other is holding the back side
of the metal bell housing cover to the transaxle.  Again, you'll figure
it out.

>
>- Any special tools required for the job that I may not know about 
>(VW specific)?

8mm triple square drive to remove the disconnect the inner CV joints
from the transaxle output drive flanges.  Set of four available at
places like Pep Boys under the Opel brake tools guise. :)  Other then
that, a 30mm socket and breaker bar to remove the drivers side axle nut.
Do that before lifting the car, as it's on there with like 170 ft/lbs.
Make sure it goes back on that tight too, a new one is recommended as
they're supposed to be single use.

>
>David
>

==Brett

 \/  '84 Scirocco (ITB racer 2B) | "Hot VW's, take two home. They're small"
\/\/ '88 Scirocco 16v (Show), '85 Scirocco (Winter) | - brett@netacc.net

--
Email problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org  To unsubscibe send
"unsubscribe scirocco-l" in the message to majordomo@scirocco.org