Re: [2 liter 16v] Brain Picking Cont'd

["Craig Williams" <roccolister@hotmail.com>]

Jeremy,

Here's my experience from my project that is yet to be completed...


> I want to
> do everything I can while the engine is apart to make this a well-running,
> reliable, somewhat cost-effective, VTEC eating monster.

This is how my project started, too. Once you start replacing pistons and
stuff, the budget goes out the window.

> 1)  Is it worth going with 83mm pistons?  I know TT sells them for about
> $700 but what kind of labor cost am I
>       looking at for machine shop work?

I got the cast set of Mahle 83's from Potterman for $450. My machine shop
charged me $100 for a bore and hone on all four cylinders

> Pros/cons of punching it out to 2.1
> w/ forged pistons?

I elected not to go with theis set up because it was major amounts of more
money. The Autotech crank is over $1500 alone plus about $800 - $900 for the
piston set. They say their forged pistons can be run with close tolorances,
but that's not the rule with forged pistons. Ask around and you'll find the
common opinion that forged pistons have to have a larger tolorance in the
cylinders and will bang around when cold, making more wear on the pistons
and bores.

> 2)  Should I stick with the original rods or buy new?  What should I look
> for when inspecting the rods when I pull
>       them?

I used my original rods, and the motor I got them from had 100,000 miles. I
had ne wrist pin bushings installed and the bottoms resized. You can't
really eyeball them to see if they are good. Take them to the machine shop
and ask them to spec them out and look for twists.

>
> 3)   Does the block require any prep other than hot-tanking if it is to be
> painted?  Any experiences with painting,
>       powder coating, ceramic coating, etc. would be very helpful.

After I had all the machining done and hot-tanked it, I cleaned it up with
soap and water, masked it off and painted it. I found a great high-temp
paint by Duplicolor. I contains ceramics and comes in a spray can for about
$3.99 a can.

>
> 4)  One of my main concerns is replacement of fasteners and tapping the
> holes.  I've already stripped/broken 3
>       different bolts and one broke off flush with the block.  I know I
will
> replace things like head bolts, rod bolts,
>       crank sprocket bolt, etc. but what about less critical things like
> exhaust manifold studs?  Can you get these
>       in stainless so they're not a PITA in the future?  Should I get a
> machine shop to tap/clean all the holes in the
>       block cuz I don't think I want to even ask what a tap and die set
> costs.

Clean everything. The cleaner the better. If I re-use a bolt, I use my wire
wheel to clean out the threads. I'm using an anti-seizing compund on the
threads of the exhaust and water bolts. The only bolts that are required to
be replaced every time are the strech type bolts. (Head bolts, rod bolts)
Typically if the Bently says to torque it down and then add an extra 1/4 or
1/2 turn, they need to be replaced after being removed.

>
> That's all for today, thanks for your input and patience.

Good luck. You can look at my project at the following link:
http://www.jswinsurance.com/scirocco1/s1c.html
--Craig Williams
1981 SciroccoS 2008cc 16V (disassembled in the garage)
1987 Jetta GLI 16V (Daily Driver)
1991 Passat Wagon 2.0 16V (For the Wife)

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