Re: screwed up crank shaft pulley allen bolt...

[drew <drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca>]

In this situation I find a good sharp chisel never fails.  Strike the
bucket bolt at about 8 o'clock with the chisel pointing angled towards the
bottom of the bolt (about 45 degrees works OK).  The idea is to enourage
the bolt to turn out (CCW) using the chisel.  The force of hitting the
chisel with a hammer loosens the bolt after one or two blows - never had
it fail.  The bolts are never hard to turn out after loosened, and should
come out with finger pressure.  You will need a new bolt, but you do
anyways, because it's already fubar, right? :)

The alternatives are a) sharp vice grips - not quite as effective as many
pullies are dished in, making access difficult (on the TD motor with
harmonic damper built in to the pully, this approach is pretty much
futile.) or b) drilling the heal off the bucket bolt.  The idea here is
you drill with a large enough drill to shear the head off the bolt - but
you don't want to drill any further than necessary.  USe one of your other
bolts as a guide to judge how deep you have to drill (it's the distance
from the bottom of the bucket to the bottom of the bolt head, and the
drill bit should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt -
drilled dead centre.) Once the pulley is off, you'll be able to turn out
the headless bolt with pliers or your fingers.

The chisel method always works for me on the car - I've used the drill
method when the pulley/damper has already been removed from the engine.

Drew

On Wed, 2 Feb 2000, Oliver Seiler wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> I was going to replace the timing belt on my '86 8V this evening, but
> ended up rounding out one of the Allen bolts connecting my alternator
> pulley to the crankshaft (preventing me from taking off the lower timing
> belt cover). I'd previously used Liquid Wrench, but I suspect all the
> bolts were over tightened by PO, and I was unlucky with this one (they're
> only supposed to be torqued to 20 Nm, but I had to get a lot of leverage
> before they'd budge, and this was with the Liquid Wrench being given ample
> soak-in time).
> 
> Anyway, what are my options? The best way I can see is to use something
> that can grip the bolt on the outside strong enough to keep from slipping
> with the amount of torque needed to loosen it, though I don't have
> anything that can do this right now. Options after that seem less
> attractive and more expensive. I'd like to be able to do it myself, for
> obvious reasons, but if I have to take it in, I guess I'll have to.
> 
> Oh well -- being stymied by the stuck bolt, I wound up replacing my water
> pump, which was a very interesting (and tiring) thing to do right after
> work in a parking garage...
> 
> Thanks,
> Oliver
> 
> Oliver Seiler -- Software Developer, Pivotal Software, http://www.pivotal.com
>     Scirocco MkII Diary - http://erisian.com/~oseiler/scirocco/index.html
> 
> 
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Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of Guelph

drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca           |  visit the Massey-Harris page:
http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew   |  http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca


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