Re: Rear Disk Conversion?

[Brett P VanSprewenburg <brettv@rocketmail.com>]

---Slink <slink1@jps.net> wrote:
> Brett Van Sprewenburg wrote:
> 
> > >Hi all,
> > >
> > >
> > >Firstly, what do I need for the front brakes for the upgrade?  Do I need
> > >the entire shebang.  Secondly, what do I need in the rear.  I am unclear
as
> > >to whether or not I need the entire rear axle.  I was told that I don't.
> > >So what's up with that.  Can someone clarify this for moi.  Merci
beaucoup.
> > >
> > >Thanks for the help.
> > >
> > >
> > >Sal
> > >
> > >BTW, I will also use the master cylinder.  Am I missing any other valuable
> > >components?
> >
> > For the front 10.1 conversion, you need the pad carriers, the calipers,
> > and maybe the wheel bearing carriers (which is what the pad carrier
> > mounts to).   New pads and discs would probably be good too. :)
> >
> > For the rear disc conversion, you don't need an entire axle.  You
> > do need the stub axles from a rear disc equipped car, along with
> > the pad carriers, and calipers naturally.  New hard lines and flexible
> > lines from the flex lines that jump over the beam axle to the
> > caliper will be necessary.  In addition, get the in-line brake
> > bias adjusters from a Scirocco 16v (closest in weight is my guess).
> > Don't forget new pads, rotors, wheel bearings and rear dust seals.
> >
> > ==Brett
> >
> 
> Question? if you go about the rear disc conversion without the whole axle
> could you use and vw model for parts (assuming in the a1 amd a2 range). 
> And what about using the brake bias adjusters thats on the car already.  
> I mean can't you just readjust them.
> 
> slink
> 85 scirocco wolfburg edition.

I'm pretty sure everything will work from an A2 rear disc equipped car on
an A1, the only thing that I wonder about is the E-Brake cable.  I think
the E-Brake lever is in a different spot, doesn't mean it won't work though,
just might have to route (and retain the cable on the swing arm) differently.

As far as the bias adjusters, they are fat little tubes near the master
cylinder with a brake line (in/out) at each end.  The ones on the car
already will probably work to some degree, but to prevent premature rear
lockup (sounds vaugely pornograhic, eh?) use the ones from a SII 16v. My
advice anyway, why screw around with a half-assed solution?  This is
one of the principles I developed as I grew older...took YEARS of sub-
optimal solutions for me to figure this one out. :)  But do whatever you
really want...

==Brett

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