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Re: [16v] now my car is screwed! any suggestions?



Ryan,

How old is your catalytic converter?  It could be a
clogged converter that needs replacing?

Wayne C.


<Ok, ive exhausted my knowledge, or at least as much
as
I can remeber...show me true enlightenment!

Symptom: Driving home from work through 30 miles of
semi
residential streets, the first stop i come to the car 
idle dips a bit, each subsequent stop the idle dips
again
to around 400-500 and almost stalls. Now each time
progressively the car seems more sluggish off the
line,
then at the stops, my oil light flickers. at this
point
the car barely is able to chug up to 2krpm then the
power
kicks in..2 stops later the car wont budge, just sits
there
and idles, cant rev it up!

What I did: I pushed the car off onto a sidestreet
while
still idling, sounded ok, turned car off. Car
restarted
but as soon as I moved the throttle open a bit the car
would studder and then die. car would start fine but
thats
all it would do.

Then what I did: 
+ I dicsonnected 1-4 plug wire and each time the car 
  stuttered badly so i'ts firing in all 4 cyls.
+ I checked the idle screw and boot and all hoses no
vaccume
  leaks at all, air filter is fine not clogged
+ disconnected and inspected the 2 swiches on the fuel
dist
  and the one on the back of the t-body, all looked ok

so i tow roped it in front of my moms house which was
only 1
mile away. There I...
+ replaced the whole fuel dist/fpr unit with one that
was in my
  running red 16v that i wrecked.- note I actually
removed the
  orig one, hit the plate and actuator with carb
cleaner and
  put the orig one back on, removed it again and put
the spare
  one on. Each time i tried to start the car it
wouldnt start,
  just turned over and over and sounded like it was
about to
  catch but died. So each time i disconnected the fuel
lines
  fuel came out ..ie I had pressure.. especially a lot
came out
  the cold start injector.

..so now the car doesnt even start..

+ checked the fuses replaced a broke #16
+ the fuel pump and tank are only 3 months old
+ yes I have gas 1/4 a tank
+ checked cam timing, both cam sprocket and crank
marks lineup
+ checked dist, its snug and not loose so im sure it
didnt move
+ hall sender connector looked solid and good.
+ physically checked the air flow plate while
cranking, it
  does lift up
+ let the car sit overnight still wont start, just
turns over.

..im stumped, i got spark, i got air, im pretty sure I
have
fuel. I havent tested each injector but liek i said
each time
there was substantial fuel pressure inthe
disrtributor. 
Because fuel came out each time and isn't the air flow
plate
much harder to lift up when fuel pressure exists? I
sure know
a disconnected one is easy as butter to lift but the
one on the
car was a challenge for 2 little fingers on a 3mm high
nut.

could my ignition timing be that off for no reason? i
tried
to hook up a timing light but cat tell very easily
while
just trying to see while cranking a car, it just
doesnt pulse
very fast to see the mark.

I do have a lightened flywheel, and i think my crank
pully is
warped because it wobbles noticibly, but all 4 bolts
and pully
is on very very tight. No oil leaks i had full oil the
whole
time, and now accidentally is 1 quart too high...but i
know
a car will start even with too much oil, it will just
leak
up past the rings and burn a lot of oil...so any ideas
or
things to check that I missed. I dont have a voltmeter
but
i guess i could go buy one. Im really not looking
forward
to removing my front bumper to get the car towed.

would a bad cold start injector cause the car not to
start?
I think something is stemming back from the orig
problem,
but i have no clue what could cause my car to degrade
so
poorly yer still start and idle. It cranks healthy
jsut doesnt
catch and even if it did catch im afraid it still
wouldnt rev.

any ideas?
Ryan<



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