Re: Q? on Breaking in a rebuilt motor

["Rich Zuk" <emt@imcnyc.com>]

Thanks for getting back to me...Here's 5 more questions...
1/5: So 10W-40 instead of 20w-50?
2/5: Should I use the 10w-40 oil during the break in time?
3/5: Should I run the motor thru it's entire rev band, including some full
throttle  within the first 500 miles or after?

>What block seals didn't you replace?  Front and rear crank seals?  Why NOT!
>You were 99% of the way there!!
4/5: Because my shop is doing the work and I really didn't know about it.
BTW, the motor is in the car.   Is it okay to do the front crank seal later
and the rear crank seal when doing the future clutch since they are not
leaking now?

>Funny you should ask - I just ran in my fresh motor yesterday at Summit
Point
>- put about 120 miles on it.  Start out with an organic oil (10W-40 Castrol
is
>my choice).  Discontinue any friction-reducer products until the motor is
>broken in.  Run the motor thru it's entire rev band, including some full
>throttle.  Avoid drag racing.  After about 500 street miles, I'd change the
>oil with more break-in oil.  1000 miles after the first change, do it
again,
>then 2000 miles afterwards.  From that point forward, you can begin using
your
>friction reducers and synthtic oil.
>
>FYI, switching between organic and synthetic
>oils does not cause leaks.  Synthetics, due to their pumpability, tend to
find
>leaks that organics don't find.  Those same leaks exist regardless, just
that
>organics don't flow well enough to care.

5/5: Since I'm not changing the block seals, will I develop leaks when I
switch to synthetic (now that it will flow better)?

BTW, where's Summit Point??
Peace
Rich Z



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