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Re: 2.0 engines



> 
> Hi all.
> 
> does any know what the cost of machine work would be for a 2.0 bottom 
> end if I supply all parts.  I want to have the block blue printed and 
> balenced if the cost isn't too astronomical. 

This is right on target for exactly what I'm going through right now.  I
dropped off my 2L 16v block at the machine shop weeks ago, I did the
run down on prices already, but you must have missed it.  The machine
shop work is costing my ~$550, $700 if I have them assemble it.  They
cleaned everything in a dip tank, R&R's the intermediate shaft, R&R'd 
the oil squirters (I supplied special VW sealant at $45), bored & honed
cylinders to 83mm (2nd oversize), 're-rounded' all rod connections, 
're-rounded' all crank connections (my words for making sure that rod &
crank saddles when mated make a nice round bearing holder).  I supplied
all the new parts: all rod bearings/bushings, crank bearings, 83mm cast
pistons, piston rings, oil squirter sealant, and full block gaskets.  This
is all on top of the machine shop work.  It's not cheap to do this right.


> Also does anyone have 
> experience with shrick cams.  specifically the 260's vs the 268's.  I 
> want an engine with really strong top end but I still want it 
> streetable.  

Me too, that's why I bought the Schrick 260's.  I'll also be putting on
a Eurosport cam timing sprocket to put the power where I really want it
in the RPM band.  I'll let everyone know how things work out.


> also I saw autotech(I know these guys aren't the best 
> but) had a cam set that  they claim had better torque than the shrick 
> 260's and had more hp go figure --is this just bullshit.
> any cam opinions welcomed.  

Don't know anything about them, if what they say is true, it's the 16v 
tuning equivalant of a cheap date. :)   Everything for tuning a 16v is
usually so expensive...

> tia
> Tony
> ps I just started tearing down my spare head tonight.  I like 
> building motors already

I hope the fun factor lasts! :)

==Brett
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