Re: Speakers : 6x9s - Rear Shelf Design ramblings

[TBerk16@aol.com]

In a message dated 11/9/98 6:54:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
clfitz@inetone.net writes:

>  The big thing with the factory hatch cover will probably be the weight of
>  the speakers.  I first used 1/4" plywood, but it sagged immediately from
>  the weight.
>  

Some design ramblings, use as you will:

I have worked up a rear shelf for the '81 from pegboard. It's real thin so it
sagged. I figured out some aluminum angle 'iron' will bolt up just fine
underneath. This has the two features of being stiff and light. And, the holes
in the pegboard allow for bolting up speakers real easy as well as
''breathing'.

Cost of materials: 

$10 - 1/2" or 3/4" Angle Aluminum, six feet in length. ( Cut in half for two
pieces. )
$7 - 3'x4' pegboard, 1/8" or (more likely) 1/4" thickness. 
$5 - misc. nuts & bolts and mounting hardware.

A coating with verithane (sp) helps to seal and waterproof the fiber based
pegboard.

( Prices are appox based on my memory, but are in the ball park. )

Blackout most everything prior to assembly, cover w/ carpet or felt.

[ I fabricated a cargo floor board from HDF and covered it with greyfuzzy; the
stuff industrial speakers are covered with. Works well, hard to find a real
coal black color though. ]

Most speakers benefit from operating in an enclosed space, depends on
(speaker) driver size- tweeters don't need much and can be open air pretty
much. 6x9s are mids at best but could use a little enclosure to live in,
stiffness of this box is paramount.  Something the relative size of a large
shoebox for each will most likely improve the performance of these guys. Seal
up all the little air gaps if you go this way, contact me if you'd like more
info re: speaker enclosures -

Warning- Most speaker surrounds don't last through the curing process of
sealants like silicon, etc., the stuff outgasses and it will deteriorate the
speakers.

hope I'm helping,
TBerk

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