Re: Grounding Cold Start valve?? - Clarity pls.

["A. Bjorkheim" <andreb@u.washington.edu>]

> Are we talking about the same thing? I am refereing to grounding the
> outside of the coldstart injector. This does not mean I am having it opeate
> at any time it doesn't now, nor in any other above and beyond manner.
> 
> he description above sounds like a warning to avoid changing normal
> operation. My description of extra grounding was refering to grounding
> points on the mounting bolts that hold the injector to the end of the air
> intake. 
> 
> In any case mine seems factory and includes a ground for the ign.'s brain.
> 
> Perhaps there has been some miscommunication here.

    Yeah, I think so.  Just to clarify, cold start has 2 terminals.  1 for
power during engine cranking, the other to a variable ground.  If this
variable ground wire is grounded, cold start operates, if this variable
ground is highly resistive, (open) cold start doesnt operate.  To test
cold start, simply ground this wire manually.  Best way to do it is to
take off plug (thermo) and shove ground wire in there and then start the
car. If cold and fires right up, chances are thermo time switch isnt
grounding wire, or wire is busted, or cold start or thermo arent getting
power wire.  Check with Bently for specific colors of wires.  The case of
the cold start valve has nothing to do with its operation, or else if you
took it off the intake manifold it wouldnt work.  Hope this clears things
up.  William and I did a big stink on this a few months back so it is
rather fresh in my memory.  BTW, any time you permanently ground the cold
start, you will get warm starting problems due to flooding.  Remember, we
are talking testing of cold start and thermo, not permament placement of
wires to bypass any of this stuff.  HTH...

  Andre'
  Neon Green 79



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