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Howdy!  AFAIK  The hone on the drill is OK  The thing to rememder is to take
it out with the drill still spinning  oe else it will screw up the 
cross-hatch pattern.  You will need a ridge reamer to romove the small ridge
on top of the cylinder

Feel free to correct me :)
Dave (gettin' itchy to start my spring project!!)


 
 ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: SMTP%mannix@privatei.com@eng.cabot.nf.ca
To: CC938999@eng.cabot.nf.ca

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Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:40:01 -0700
To: scirocco-l@privatei.com
From: "I.Mannix" <mannix@privatei.com>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding a shortblock
Sender: owner-scirocco-l@mantis.privatei.com
Precedence: bulk

>Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 12:37:28 -0700
>To: Chris Taylor <chtaylo4@vt.edu>
>From: "I.Mannix" <mannix@privatei.com>
>Subject: Re: Rebuilding a shortblock
>Cc:
>Bcc:
>X-Attachments:
>
>>Since my G60 has most likely been hammered, I'd like to give it a lil' tune
>>up before i install it.  i.e. a complete gasket/seal set, and rebuilding the
>>shortblock.
>
>Not a bad idea.
>
>>
>>For those of you who dont' know, the G60 is a beefed up 1.8L 8v.
>>
>
>You're going to do the head, too, I take it.  AFAIK, the head is where VWs
>are likely to lose performance first.
>
>>Re: the shortblock---I guess I need piston rings, rod bushings, and crank
>>bearings?  Do I need any experience/tools to do this?  Can I really screw
>>this up?  I've never peeked into an engine.  Is a "hone on the electric
>>drill, go up and down the cylinders a few times" an okay idea?
>
>I don't know a whole lot about it, but the drill idea does not sound so
>good to me.  I guess it depends on the condition of the cylinder walls to
>begin with - there is often a ridge at the top of old engine's cylinder
>bores that has to be removed before re-ringing.  How about taking the bare
>block to a machine shop, getting the bores done, get the crank journals
>polished, etc, then putting it back together?  Are you going to increase
>compression any?  The G60 has 8:1, right?  At what point is the
>compression too high?  Anyone know?  I'd guess you could go a 1/2 point in
>compression without bad results, but gaining a little power.  I'd just
>feel better about increasing compression through mechanical means rather
>than a smaller pulley.  IMHO.  As far as replacing the crank, I did it
>once in my Jeep, and it was a bit of a hassle, as I had to use plastigage,
>this stuff that tells you bearing clearance - maybe this is not required
>on VW engines, I don't know.
>
>>
>>Anyone have any tips/do's/don'ts?
>
>Change all seals while the engine is out.  Sounds like you're going to do
>this anyway.  Best of luck!
>
>
>Mannix
>
>
>
>






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