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Re: [to everyone] how low r u?



At 4:32 PM -0800 12/28/1997, Riley McDowall wrote:
>>It is really not that much more money - none of this Avo crap, that's
>>overpriced.  Ground Control sells a functional coilover conversion for $395
>>including springs(4 perches/hats/springs), plus you'd need about $50 in
>>labor to get the collars welded on.  $200 more than Neuspeed "Race"
>>springs, give or take.   This would give you the "stiff" ride you
>
>Give or take, in Jason's and my case, means about $400CDN.  I priced both
>options out, and to put the GC conversion on my Konis would have been about
>$800CDN, plus or minus $50, incl. installation.  The Neuspeed Race I got
>for $378 before tax, plus $100 installation.

Sucks.  Neuspeed race springs are $380 there?  Brutal.  That's lame.  Get a
friend south of the border to ship stuff to, then drive to his house and
pick it up(assuming you live within a couple hours of the states).


 I don't see a good reason to convert to coilovers.

Only reason beyond competition I can see is if one wants something __LOW__
and __STIFF__.  Grin.  I just don't think the Neuspeed race springs are
that stiff - definetly not "__STIFF__" in my definition.  Heck of a lot
cheaper than Neuspeed's "Touring" springs.  What a crock those were.
Shawn's Shine suggestion is a good one - SRS will supposedly make you
whatever rate you want.  Been meaning to go down there while I'm here in
Mass, but Walpole is far away from my Harvard home.  Eh, hour, maybe,
dunno, reluctant to drive down there to get in a fight with Dick.  Aptly
named;).

  If you
>are campaigning the car, Mannix told me something interesting about the
>Race springs.  Since they only have 3 active coils, under extreme loads the
>spring compressess 100% and the rate goes to infinity, more or less.

Yah.  Suck.  Took me a while to get it figured out - I did not replace them
for a while because I rationalized that they were 300# springs, and (at the
time) if I changed front rate, I'd have only gone to 350.  Once I figured
out the bumpstops were coming solidly in contact, I changed them out
quickly - instant improvement(then I made other changes which turned it
into the Spin-O-Matic, figuring that out now, but it is faster), and put
the Race springs on a tester - 75# for the initial travel, then goes to
about 150# where the car probably sat, increasing slowly to 300# - it is an
honest 300#, but it is _at_ the end of the travel.

  I
>don't see how this could happen with anything other than R compound tires
>though, so if you only use street tires you should be ok.

Probably.  I was running a softish front bar at the time - it is going to
get firmer soon.  With no front bar, street tires would be enough.  With a
front bar, 20mm or more, I'd guess, it'd be fine.

>
>Also, Koni gives you instructions with their shocks on how to cut down
>stock bump stops...I can't remember what they said though.

You got the deluxe package!  I did'nt get that!  Wish I had....now I just
compress the shock fully, measure, then make something that I don't think
will compress smaller(or use Koni's stops).

>
>Hey Mannix, how did you clearance your fenders?  I know Andre used a
>grinder to cut away the metal, but a lot of people use a baseball bat or
>similar to roll the metal out.  Did you manage to keep your plastic
>wheelwell liners?


I did keep the liners.  I used a dowel, maybe 1.25", put it on top of the
tire, lifted, had someone stand on the bumper, rolled the car back and
forth with the dowel in there, hammered the rears a bit(rubber mallet),
ground screwheads down(so Kevin can make my flares come off when he drives
my car), simple stuff.  If  I were to do it again, I'd get it done faster -
I was careful not to damage anything, and it actually takes a good bit of
force to bend stuff out.  I'd probably use a bat, wood one, roll it along
the tires, maybe a hammmer, eh, don't know.  If I was set on keeping those
15" wheels, I'd probably have gotten a set of 195s and been done with it.
I did not cut anything metal, might have trimmed plastic.  I think
loosening the flare  screws, sliding the flares out as far as they could go
then retightening helped a lot, actually.  My flares are all messed up from
my 13s anyhow - the fronts have little arches ground in them from the R1s
eating away at them:).  They don't do that anymore.  TTYS!


I.Mannix


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