Changing Engine Mounts

[picot@cpcug.org (Chris Picot)]

From: Andre Bjorkheim <andreb@u.washington.edu>
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 1996 20:57:34 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Changing engine mounts..

On Wed, 6 Nov 1996 Mute0@aol.com wrote:

> Ok so just how hard is it to change engine mounts? Josh tells me he got the
> dealer to do it for $120 and it was a night and day difference.  I know the
> front one is easy but its my side ones that need changing. Any comments on
> doing it at home?

    I need to do the same thing on my rocco.  Any suggestions for the 
  do-it-yourselfer?

    Andre'

Andre'

I just did this job on my 84 Scirocco (Sanyo A/C comp).    Someday (?) I
intend to write up all the details, but until then I would note: 

-See the article by Dan Eldred in the FAQs or archieves. It pretty much
covers it.

- I had removed my top and bottom timing belt covers and the two pulleys
several times before, and it is easier each time. 

- The part of the mount that attaches to the engine is roughly a rectangle
with a bolt hole in each corner.  The top one nearest the firewall (allen
bolt) is the one that is really hard to get out.  Get a spare 6mm "L" shaped
allen key.  The short end of the "L" must be shortened to about 3/8" long in
order to have enough clearance to remove the bolt.  (It is easier to do this
on an electric grindwheel than with a hack saw.) The engine needs to be
raised to get the max amount of clearance.  You may want to remove this bolt
early in the process so it is not the last one holding the mount in, ie
there may be less chance of binding.  The one regular hex bolt on the engine
may be the one to do last.

- Dan could not get the mount back in w/o taking the timing belt tensioner
and the "back lower" (between timing belt and engine) timing belt cover off
(after removing the intermediate shaft sprocket).  (Just after I removed the
mount, I tried to put it back into position to see if it was going to be
problem.  It seemed like it might be, so, when I got around to installing
the new mount, I removed the timing belt tensioner to get more room to work
and loosened the "back lower" timing belt cover but did not remove it or the
intermediate shaft sprocket.  (Before removing the tensioner, mark the
sprockets and belt with chalk or paint and use a bungee cord between the
belt and the hood of the car to keep tension on the belt so it stays on the
sprockets.  When you replace the tensioner later, ypou may be able to do so
w/o all the hassle of having to get everything lined up.) 

- You should probably cut through the inner lining of the old insert with a
hacksaw per the Bentley manual, but have the old mount pressed out & new one
in by a machine shop, do not do it yourself unless you have a press and the
right parts.  (Shop around a bit for a price.  I wanted to wait while it was
being done so I could get on with my work. My experience: Shop #1. (Guy with
a German accent and a German name, I must be in good hands.) "These are very
difficult because we have trouble getting a bite on the insert.  You will
have to leave it.  It will probably be $60-$80."  Shop #2. "Can you do it
while I wait?"  "Let me see how hard it is going to be."  Goes into back
room.  Returns 10 minutes later.  "That will be $10."  That was probably a
very good price. You may have to pay more.) 

- The istallation of the mount went pretty well.

- NOTE: When I went to replace the timing belt tensioner, there was not
enough room to slide it onto the stud because the new mount was, well, new
and stiff. Luckily I had a new tensioner which was the new style (old style
has big hex shape stamped into it and you use a big adjustable wrench to
adjust the tension - the new style is thinner and you use a special wrench
which fits in two samll holes on the tensioner). The new style also fits on
a shorter stud which I also had.  I installed them with no problem.  I would
have been in a pickle w/o those two parts.  If you don't have them, I guess
you could get another nut for the stud, remove it and them install the stud
with the tensioner in it proper position. 

- NOTE2:  When replacing the lower timing belt cover, if there is any "slop"
when the bolts are loosely installed, try to position the cover so it is
centered properly.  After I had my car all back together, I heard a noise
(albeit intermittently) which I later assumed was the timing belt rubbing on
the cover and cutting a slightly different path.  The noise went away. 

- Overall this job can be annoying due to the fact that you are trying to
attach the mount to two things which you cannot move very much.  

- General tip:  If any of your allen bolts for the pulleys are old, cruddy,
or a bit worn, replace them with new ones, otherwise they will srtip out the
next time you try to remove them. 

Email me if yuo need any more info.

Good luck, 

Chris

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