Master Cylinder - WTF?

[hareless at gmail.com (Sean Whalen)]

Same thing Gordy said, but also, if the master isn't the same as the one you
replaced (same length), then you might be blocking the front outlets on the
cylinder; which I believe are driver's front line and passenger's rear.

Whew, what a run on sentence.

As far as the booster, I believe that they are specific to the master
application.  Some rods don't stick out as far, because the master shafts
are longer.

Hope that helps.

On 3/28/07, Gordy Stedman <ydrogs@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Make sure the used booster is the same style as the one you took out.  The
> MK1 scirocco has different mounting points coming off the fire wall for
> the
> booster than later VWs which requires a different booster which affects
> the
> point of where the push rod from the pedal meets the master cylinder.  I
> do
> not know if the boosters are interchangeable from MK1 to MK2 boosters but
> I
> would expect they are.  We tried mounting a 22mm passat master cyliner
> onto a A2 golf booster and found out that there was about a 1/2" of pedal
> play due to the fact that the push rod from the pedal was almost
> completley
> engaging the master cylinder when bolted in.  I think we even had to cut
> part of the 22mm master cylinder off on the end that mates to the booster
> to
> work properly with the early booster we had.  If you have the right
> replacement parts then I do not know what the problem could be.
>
> On 3/28/07, Daun Yeagley <vwdaun@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >
> > As some of you may know, I just installed a new master
> > cylinder on Deiter, the '81 S.  It seems as though the old
> > one was leaking fluid into the brake booster.  And yes, I
> > replaced the brake booster with an unknown quantity used
> > booster.  (Can't seem to get a new one now.)
> >
> > First attempt at bleeding the brakes resulted in the
> > semi-expected snapped bleeder screws in the rear, so I
> > replaced both wheel cylinders this evening.
> >
> > Filled the brake fluid reservoir and started at the right
> > rear wheel to work the air out of the system.  I don't have
> > a pressure bleeder, so I'm stuck with the old "someone pump
> > the pedal while I turn the bleeder screw" routine.  After
> > working my way around the car, I still have a brake pedal
> > that shows no real resistance to going to the floor, AND it
> > seems to have a "catch" in it about 2/3 of the way down.
> > (Which was present when I started.)
> >
> > So now what?  Have I done something wrong here?
> >
> > Daun Yeagley - Wilmington Ohio
>
>
> --
> Gordy
> MK1 x 4
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-- 
Sean
A-1 x 2