Rear wheel bearing issues

[kkrup62 at hotmail.com (Karl Krupke)]

Hi Nate (and List),
    That's one of the two things I really truly hate about VW's; both being 
'specs'.
    The first, for rear wheel nut (thus play) being 'just able to move shim 
with screwdriver', the second being timing belt tension, spec being 'just 
able to turn/ twist 90 degrees'. Those aren't 'specs', at best they're 
educated guesswork. Gimme a measurable, quantifiable torque value...
    Concerning the rear bearings, I go by freewheel. Tighten the nut (slowly 
and gently) to the point where the wheel (drum) won't rotate on inertia; in 
other words keep spinning and when the wheel won't spin when your hand comes 
off, you're there. If you tighten any more, you're just adding pressure.
    Now, back the nut off about 1/2 trun, spin again. The wheel should spin 
a bit on inertia, but not much. There should be little or no perceptable 
play, measured by fingertip feel (try rocking the drum side to side, then up 
and down).
    You're shooting for 'just in contact, no play', and I'd aim for loose 
side of that. Bearings will expand and clearances will decrease with heat.
    I would suggest rechecking that the driven bearing races (inner and 
outer bearings, inner race of both) that have to be driven into the drum, 
are seated properly. I use a socket, as big as you have that'll fit clear 
(no interference) inside the machined surface; tap tap tap until it seats 
(there will be a noticeable change in tone and feel; while the race is 
"dropping" into place it just does that, but when it comes in contact at the 
seat there will be more bounce... uh, feedback to the hammer. Trust me, 
feels and sounds different.), then tap tap tap all around the circle of the 
socket so you're sure the race is fully seated, bottomed out on all sides. 
If either race is loose there's no point in adjusting the bearings...
    Hope this helps.

Karl

>From: julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: "Nate Mellom" <doubt@xxxxxxxxxx>, "Scirocco list" 
><scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: Re: Rear wheel bearing issues
>Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2007 01:00:30 +0000
>
>I go through the same thing with my rears. Using a screw driver to TAP the 
>races in might be my culprit.
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Nate Mellom [mailto:doubt@xxxxxxxxxx]
> >Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 07:34 PM
> >To: 'Scirocco list'
> >Subject: Rear wheel bearing issues
> >
> >All,
> >I took to replacing the rear wheel bearings on my (*) yesterday. I
> >installed 2 complete kits: inner and outer bearings, inner and outer
> >races, grease seals, axle nut retainers and cotter keys. Packed the
> >bearings with Lucas grease, cleaned and lubed all parts, packed the
> >bearings tight. Problem is, I'm getting axial play in both rear wheels.
> > I tightened the nuts to spec (every book I looked in called for just
> >enough torque to be able to push the retaining washer with a
> >screwdriver, or 7.5 lb/ft). The axle stubs are in perfect condition, no
> >unusual wear or scoring. If I tighten the axle nut enough to get the
> >play out, the wheel barely turns 1/8 revolution on its own power. I'm
> >reluctant to tighten them up too much. Is there inherent slop in rear
> >wheel bearings? Should I repack the bearings, maybe there's some air
> >space in them? They were loose last night, I drove it to work today and
> >rechecked (40 highway miles on them), still play.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Nate
> >
> >(*) could be any A1/A2/A3 rear disk brake equipped VW. Not ready for an
> >announcement yet.
> >
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