Timing the cam - what about the intermediate shaft to crankshaft?

[Eeffinger at conestogac.on.ca (Edward Effinger)]

Thanks for your reply Dan.
Yes, the motor is a 1.7 8V(sorry for not mentioning that) and all the
plugs are out.
The rotor is at #1 at TDC and cam shaft is out only 1 tooth (which I
shall adjust).
 
I was wondering if the intermediate shaft is also a balance shaft and
thus needs
to be aligned for a smoother running motor?
 
Thanks
Ed '81S


>>> "Dan Bubb" <jdbubb@verizon.net> 1/10/2007 8:26 PM >>>
The absolute position of the auxilary shaft isn't important at all. As
long 
as the distributor rotor is centered on the #1 wire in the distributor
cap 
when the engine is at TDC and the cam timing mark is lined up per the 
Bentley with the top of the inner timing cover. ( this is an 8V
right??)

Turning the engine by hand is sort of an on-off affair. If you're
pushing 
into a compression stroke for one of the pistons it'll be hard to turn,
if 
you push through that quickly it'll tend to pop over center, otherwise
it 
turns pretty easily.
If you have doubts you can try two things. Pull all the plugs in which
case 
it should turn pretty easily at all times although there will be slight

variation in force depending on the piston position. Or you can do a 
compression check.
Dan

From: "Edward Effinger" <eeffinger@conestogac.on.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: Timing the cam - what about the intermediate shaft to 
crankshaft?


> Greetings.
> What a coincidence, I was just in the garage last night after
deciding
> the check my cam/dist timing
> for absolute correctness.  Due to a vibrating motor which also seems
> slightly difficult to tune, I
> suspected that all was not in order.
> After locating tdc, the cam is out 1 tooth, not too serious, but the
> marks on the intermediate shaft to
> crankshaft are out approx 80 degrees.
> The distributor however does point to cylinder one correctly at this
> setting.
>
> Question 1: Does the timing of the intermediate shaft matter at this
> point, and if so why?
>
> Question 2: Also, it seemed to me that the engine did not rotate
with
> total even effort when turning
> with the crankshaft bolt. It took considerable effort to begin to
turn
> and then went easily, almost
> like I was encountering some compression??
>
> Thanks in advance
> Ed '81 (busy as a squirrel getting ready for spring, I know it should
be
> winter)
>
>>>> "Dan Bubb" <jdbubb@verizon.net> 01/09/07 3:38 PM >>>
> Couple basic things to check.
> First take a quick look at cam timing and make sure the cam timing
mark
> lines up with the top of the inner cam cover when the engine is at
TDC,
> "0" mark on the flywheel. The Bentley has a picture of where to line
up
> the cam timing mark.
> Next while the engine is set in that position make sure the
distributor
> rotor is pointing at the plug wire for cylinder #1. It  can possibly
be
> pointing at cylinder #4 and the timing would appear to be correct but
it
> would be sparking at the wrong cylinder.
> Next I'd be making sure the cold start injector is squirting. I
think
> the test is as easy as pulling the cold start injector, aiming it
into a
> jar and cranking the engine. If it doesn't squirt then the things to
> check are the wiring and the thermotime switch. The engine could all
be
> fine and just not starting because it isn't being "primed" with the
cold
> start injector. Again, the Bentley is pretty specific on how to test
the
> cold start injector and related parts.
> Also, have you pulled the regular injectors and verified flow from
them?
>
> Also, not to give you a hard time, since it's quite common,
"cranking"
> is the engine turning over on the starter. So if you tried to crank
and
> the engine didn't actually  turn over then that would be a separate
set
> of problem than if the engine turned over, or cranked, fine on the
> starter but was not starting.
> I hope that's clear!
>
> Also, if the engine cranked, but the speed at which it turned over
> deteriorated quickly before it could start then that could indicate
a
> weak starter, battery or starter cable and ground cable.
>
> So, when you jumped it, did the engine not turn over on the starter
or
> did it turn over, but not actually fire?
> HTH.
> Dan
>
>
> From: "Lexan Blanchard" <lexan_122874@hotmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 2:37 PM
> Subject: Car still won't start :(
>
>
>> Update on starting of the car...  no shock, it still won't start. 
I
> have
>> gone down the list of tips, tricks and hints from everyone here. 
Also
> had a
>> friend, who knows German cars, help.  Still nothing.  We have good
gas
> and
>> good gas flow.  We have good spark.  Replaced coil and ignition
> module.  Set
>> timing.  Put in brand new battery this morning, and tried to crank.
> It
>> sounded like it was almost ready to turn over and then it seemed to
> just not
>> have enough juice.  Tried jumping it also, and that didn't work
> either.
>> Ideas?  I have to admit, I am becoming a little frustrated (insert
a
> few
>> choice curse words).  The only thing I can think of that can be
> stopping the
>> start-ability now is some kind of wiring issue.  But before I began
> pulling
>> wires and trying to read a wiring diagram, I wanted to get opinions
of
> those
>> who know the best!
>>
>> Thanks for the help!!!
>> Lexan
>> '82 8V  <--this car MUST run and be safely drivable for Cincy!!!
>>
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