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Timing the cam - what about the intermediate shaft to crankshaft?



Greetings.
What a coincidence, I was just in the garage last night after deciding
the check my cam/dist timing
for absolute correctness.  Due to a vibrating motor which also seems
slightly difficult to tune, I
suspected that all was not in order.
After locating tdc, the cam is out 1 tooth, not too serious, but the
marks on the intermediate shaft to
crankshaft are out approx 80 degrees.
The distributor however does point to cylinder one correctly at this
setting.

Question 1: Does the timing of the intermediate shaft matter at this
point, and if so why?

Question 2: Also, it seemed to me that the engine did not rotate with
total even effort when turning 
with the crankshaft bolt. It took considerable effort to begin to turn
and then went easily, almost
like I was encountering some compression??

Thanks in advance
Ed '81 (busy as a squirrel getting ready for spring, I know it should be
winter)

>>> "Dan Bubb" <jdbubb@verizon.net> 01/09/07 3:38 PM >>>
Couple basic things to check.
First take a quick look at cam timing and make sure the cam timing mark
lines up with the top of the inner cam cover when the engine is at TDC,
"0" mark on the flywheel. The Bentley has a picture of where to line up
the cam timing mark.
Next while the engine is set in that position make sure the distributor
rotor is pointing at the plug wire for cylinder #1. It  can possibly be
pointing at cylinder #4 and the timing would appear to be correct but it
would be sparking at the wrong cylinder.
Next I'd be making sure the cold start injector is squirting. I think
the test is as easy as pulling the cold start injector, aiming it into a
jar and cranking the engine. If it doesn't squirt then the things to
check are the wiring and the thermotime switch. The engine could all be
fine and just not starting because it isn't being "primed" with the cold
start injector. Again, the Bentley is pretty specific on how to test the
cold start injector and related parts.
Also, have you pulled the regular injectors and verified flow from them?

Also, not to give you a hard time, since it's quite common, "cranking"
is the engine turning over on the starter. So if you tried to crank and
the engine didn't actually  turn over then that would be a separate set
of problem than if the engine turned over, or cranked, fine on the
starter but was not starting.
I hope that's clear!

Also, if the engine cranked, but the speed at which it turned over
deteriorated quickly before it could start then that could indicate a
weak starter, battery or starter cable and ground cable.

So, when you jumped it, did the engine not turn over on the starter or
did it turn over, but not actually fire?
HTH.
Dan


From: "Lexan Blanchard" <lexan_122874@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2007 2:37 PM
Subject: Car still won't start :(


> Update on starting of the car...  no shock, it still won't start.  I
have 
> gone down the list of tips, tricks and hints from everyone here.  Also
had a 
> friend, who knows German cars, help.  Still nothing.  We have good gas
and 
> good gas flow.  We have good spark.  Replaced coil and ignition
module.  Set 
> timing.  Put in brand new battery this morning, and tried to crank. 
It 
> sounded like it was almost ready to turn over and then it seemed to
just not 
> have enough juice.  Tried jumping it also, and that didn't work
either.  
> Ideas?  I have to admit, I am becoming a little frustrated (insert a
few 
> choice curse words).  The only thing I can think of that can be
stopping the 
> start-ability now is some kind of wiring issue.  But before I began
pulling 
> wires and trying to read a wiring diagram, I wanted to get opinions of
those 
> who know the best!
> 
> Thanks for the help!!!
> Lexan
> '82 8V  <--this car MUST run and be safely drivable for Cincy!!!
> 
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