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Was Seized bushing on A-Arm now more Horror



I forwarded the repair instructions to Don last night.
It isn't actually a kit.
As I said below, the instructions indicate you should cut the sheet metal behind the pocket for the a-arm and fold it back out of the way while you chisel out the old captive nut and weld in a new one. Once that's done you reshape the original sheet metal and reweld it then cap it with part of the sheet metal from a replacement panel. Either cutting a piece from a junkyard chassis or forming one from a flat piece of sheetmetal is possible so the repair doesn't require much in the way of new parts other than a nut.
I'd find somebody that has a lot of experience welding and has a good eye for structures since this is probably the highest load point on the entire chassis.
Dan

From: "Ben Walter" <toofast4you89@gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: Was Seized bushing on A-Arm now more Horror


> is this repair kit still available by chance?(yeah right huh)
> 
> On 11/7/06, Don Walter <dswalterwi@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Excellent
>>
>> On 11/7/06, Dan Bubb <jdbubb@verizon.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > The early Scirocco shop manual that I have has a procedure for doing
>> this.
>> > Mostly it involves cutting the sheet metal BEHIND the captive nut,
>> > repairing the nut, then replacing the sheet metal and overlaying another
>> > sheet metal layer on top of it.
>> > I can scan the pages tonight and send them to you if you like.
>> > Dan
>> >
>> > From: "Don Walter" <dswalterwi@gmail.com>
>> > Sent: Tuesday, November 07, 2006 1:27 PM
>> > Subject: Was Seized bushing on A-Arm now more Horror
>> >
>> >
>> > > Well we finally got the A-Arm out by cutting the bolt.  Now the real
>> > horror
>> > > is that the thing the bolt screws into broke loose. so we can't get
>> the
>> > > complete bolt out and even worse need to repair the thing that it
>> > actually
>> > > screws into.  This of couse is in the sealed part of the
>> frame.  Options
>> > are
>> > > to cut.  I could cut the complete connection off vertically and weld
>> the
>> > > "Nut" back onto the back of it.  Or we could just cut the bottom
>> portion
>> > of
>> > > the frame open enough to access the "Nut" to weld back on then weld
>> the
>> > > plate back to the bottom of it.  The second would be less distructive
>> > and
>> > > more reliable in the future.
>> > >
>> > > Any other suggestions?
>> > >
>> > > --
>> > > Don Walter - Waukesha, WI
>> > > 1986 8V Black Scirocco (Daily Driver)
>> > > 1984 8V Audi 4000s (RIP 2/14/2006)
>> > > 1986 2.0L 16V TEC 2 Black Scirocco (see progress at
>> > > http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/708939)
>> > > 1986 2L 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (Ben's Car)
>> > > 1988 1.8 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (sold on 3/29/04)
>> > > 1984 1.8 8V Pewter Scirocco (sold years ago)
>> > > 1971 Karman Ghia (sold)
>> > > 1969 Karman Ghia (sold)
>> > > 1969 Beetle (sold)
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Scirocco-l mailing list
>> > > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>> > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> Don Walter - Waukesha, WI
>> 1986 8V Black Scirocco (Daily Driver)
>> 1984 8V Audi 4000s (RIP 2/14/2006)
>> 1986 2.0L 16V TEC 2 Black Scirocco (see progress at
>> http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/708939)
>> 1986 2L 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (Ben's Car)
>> 1988 1.8 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (sold on 3/29/04)
>> 1984 1.8 8V Pewter Scirocco (sold years ago)
>> 1971 Karman Ghia (sold)
>> 1969 Karman Ghia (sold)
>> 1969 Beetle (sold)
>> _______________________________________________
>> Scirocco-l mailing list
>> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
>>
>