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POR15/picklex q's



So, sorta OT, but...  I have a motorcycle with rust inside the gas tank.  Just surface rust mostly, but a little more significant around the filler.  I might be able to sandblast the stuff I can get to, but I really don't want sand in my fuel tank.  How should I clean this stuff out and keep it out?



Brian



Scirocco content: well, I'll save that for the next post about my car not running :(  







 --- On Mon 03/13, Sandor < sandor@vwot.org > wrote:

From: Sandor [mailto: sandor@vwot.org]

To: ggehrke@gmail.com

     Cc: scirocco-l@scirocco.org

Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 12:06:31 -0500 (EST)

Subject: Re: POR15/picklex q's



OK, might as well throw my experience with POR 15 in here.<br>My 72 Super Beetle is about 75-80% POR 15.<br>It works reasonably well...better than any Canadian Tire product or<br>anything available from a body-shop supply store.<br>I've used the silver stuff, the black stuff, done the 3 stage thing as per<br>the manufacturer, as well as tried my own methods with brake cleaner or<br>Simple Green or laquer thinner to clean before POR 15ing.<br>The most imnportant stuff as said by Grant...PREP.<br>Yeah, I know...yer all shocked.<br>POR15 also doesn't like sweat...or any contaminants for that matter...so I<br>now use exclusively, the small cans (size of a yogurt container)...as they<br>are single use and I don't have to worry about contamination.<br>It is a fairly good product, but if the metal isn't absolutely clean and<br>prepped as per their directions, it will come back in a year or so. <br>Sandb;ast and wire wheel as best you can otherwise it will come back.<br><br>I have 
never used Picklex, but now that I have a mk3 (which seems to have<br>more rust than my mk1 jetta) I'm going to try some of these other<br>products.<br><br>cheers<br>sandor<br><br><br>> I used POR-15 on my sandblasted rear interior and it still looks<br>> beautiful.  No sign of rust poking back through, but I got it REALLY<br>> clean before I applied it.  I just shot straight POR15 (no multi part<br>> process) on the metal and it was good to go.<br>> On the other hand, I also sprayed some surface rust on the outside<br>> with POR-15 but only scuffed it lightly.  It was really just using up<br>> the last of what was in the spray gun.  Those spots, within a few<br>> months, had completely lost the POR-15 and are again very rusty.<br>><br>> moral of the story: you're probably going to be okay with any similar<br>> product, but you're not going to get around the need for good prep.<br>> the POR15 site shows them spraying some nasty rusty chassis with the<br>> stuff and claiming 
that it will last forever.  I don't buy it.  I say<br>> grind off any rust that's already there, clean it up nice, shoot it<br>> with POR-15 and you'll be happy.<br>><br>> -Grant-<br>><br>> On 3/13/06, julie@menloparkrandd.com <julie@menloparkrandd.com> wrote:<br>>><br>>> I know this has been asked before, but.... After removing the<br>>> windshield, drilling out countless (and hidden) spot welds, I never want<br>>> to do this again...<br>>><br>>> I see POR15 having the heavier coat, more resistant to the elements, but<br>>> the 3 part system is expencive. Clean, etch then coat...<br>>> Picklex one blast and its done, but still needs protection.<br>>> Found on ebay, picklex is about $39.00, just the rust paint (but 5 cans)<br>>> of POR15 is $35.00<br>>><br>>> >From a chemists point of view, which is the better rust converter?<br>>><br>>> _______________________________________________<br>>> Scirocco-l mailing list<br>>> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>>> 
http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br>>><br>><br>> _______________________________________________<br>> Scirocco-l mailing list<br>> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br>><br><br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>Scirocco-l mailing list<br>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br>

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