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POR15/picklex q's
There is a set that fixes this. I got one for my son's motorcycle, but never
used it. It is Kreem tank prep.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Haygood" <haygood@myway.com>
Cc: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 12:17 PM
Subject: Re: POR15/picklex q's
>
> So, sorta OT, but... I have a motorcycle with rust inside the gas tank.
> Just surface rust mostly, but a little more significant around the filler.
> I might be able to sandblast the stuff I can get to, but I really don't
> want sand in my fuel tank. How should I clean this stuff out and keep it
> out?
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> Scirocco content: well, I'll save that for the next post about my car not
> running :(
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- On Mon 03/13, Sandor < sandor@vwot.org > wrote:
>
> From: Sandor [mailto: sandor@vwot.org]
>
> To: ggehrke@gmail.com
>
> Cc: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>
> Date: Mon, 13 Mar 2006 12:06:31 -0500 (EST)
>
> Subject: Re: POR15/picklex q's
>
>
>
> OK, might as well throw my experience with POR 15 in here.<br>My 72 Super
> Beetle is about 75-80% POR 15.<br>It works reasonably well...better than
> any Canadian Tire product or<br>anything available from a body-shop supply
> store.<br>I've used the silver stuff, the black stuff, done the 3 stage
> thing as per<br>the manufacturer, as well as tried my own methods with
> brake cleaner or<br>Simple Green or laquer thinner to clean before POR
> 15ing.<br>The most imnportant stuff as said by Grant...PREP.<br>Yeah, I
> know...yer all shocked.<br>POR15 also doesn't like sweat...or any
> contaminants for that matter...so I<br>now use exclusively, the small cans
> (size of a yogurt container)...as they<br>are single use and I don't have
> to worry about contamination.<br>It is a fairly good product, but if the
> metal isn't absolutely clean and<br>prepped as per their directions, it
> will come back in a year or so. <br>Sandb;ast and wire wheel as best you
> can otherwise it will come back.<br><br>I have
> never used Picklex, but now that I have a mk3 (which seems to have<br>more
> rust than my mk1 jetta) I'm going to try some of these
> other<br>products.<br><br>cheers<br>sandor<br><br><br>> I used POR-15 on
> my sandblasted rear interior and it still looks<br>> beautiful. No sign
> of rust poking back through, but I got it REALLY<br>> clean before I
> applied it. I just shot straight POR15 (no multi part<br>> process) on
> the metal and it was good to go.<br>> On the other hand, I also sprayed
> some surface rust on the outside<br>> with POR-15 but only scuffed it
> lightly. It was really just using up<br>> the last of what was in the
> spray gun. Those spots, within a few<br>> months, had completely lost the
> POR-15 and are again very rusty.<br>><br>> moral of the story: you're
> probably going to be okay with any similar<br>> product, but you're not
> going to get around the need for good prep.<br>> the POR15 site shows them
> spraying some nasty rusty chassis with the<br>> stuff and claiming
> that it will last forever. I don't buy it. I say<br>> grind off any rust
> that's already there, clean it up nice, shoot it<br>> with POR-15 and
> you'll be happy.<br>><br>> -Grant-<br>><br>> On 3/13/06,
> julie@menloparkrandd.com <julie@menloparkrandd.com> wrote:<br>>><br>>> I
> know this has been asked before, but.... After removing the<br>>>
> windshield, drilling out countless (and hidden) spot welds, I never
> want<br>>> to do this again...<br>>><br>>> I see POR15 having the heavier
> coat, more resistant to the elements, but<br>>> the 3 part system is
> expencive. Clean, etch then coat...<br>>> Picklex one blast and its done,
> but still needs protection.<br>>> Found on ebay, picklex is about $39.00,
> just the rust paint (but 5 cans)<br>>> of POR15 is $35.00<br>>><br>>>
> >From a chemists point of view, which is the better rust
> converter?<br>>><br>>>
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