POR15/picklex q's

[ggehrke at gmail.com (GGehrke)]

I used POR-15 on my sandblasted rear interior and it still looks
beautiful.  No sign of rust poking back through, but I got it REALLY
clean before I applied it.  I just shot straight POR15 (no multi part
process) on the metal and it was good to go.
On the other hand, I also sprayed some surface rust on the outside
with POR-15 but only scuffed it lightly.  It was really just using up
the last of what was in the spray gun.  Those spots, within a few
months, had completely lost the POR-15 and are again very rusty.

moral of the story: you're probably going to be okay with any similar
product, but you're not going to get around the need for good prep. 
the POR15 site shows them spraying some nasty rusty chassis with the
stuff and claiming that it will last forever.  I don't buy it.  I say
grind off any rust that's already there, clean it up nice, shoot it
with POR-15 and you'll be happy.

-Grant-

On 3/13/06, julie@menloparkrandd.com <julie@menloparkrandd.com> wrote:
>
> I know this has been asked before, but.... After removing the windshield, drilling out countless (and hidden) spot welds, I never want to do this again...
>
> I see POR15 having the heavier coat, more resistant to the elements, but the 3 part system is expencive. Clean, etch then coat...
> Picklex one blast and its done, but still needs protection.
> Found on ebay, picklex is about $39.00, just the rust paint (but 5 cans) of POR15 is $35.00
>
> >From a chemists point of view, which is the better rust converter?
>
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