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A/C o-rings, where to buy?



> T. Reed wrote:
>> Any advice/pointers would be appreciated..
>
> I was watching the World Cup earlier and was terse but here are my other tips 
> since no one else is home.  If you can find a local distributor of FJC 
> products then use them in lieu of buying a big kit but those prices are 
> pretty good or average.  I have never bought from that store nor do I care if 
> you do.  I just went and found the name FJC in my crap.
>
> Google to find other places with other prices:
> http://www.google.com/search?q=134a+fjc+2538

Okay, I will check them out.

> Auxiliary advice:
>
> 1.  Expansion valves are often blamed by ignoramus Gomer Pyles.  Are you sure 
> it's bad?

I'm not positive.. but I know that I had an over-pressure condition which 
popped the safety plug on the reciever/dryer, and the expansion valve 
seems like a good place to plug up the high side. The compressor kept 
running and dragging the engine idle rpm down until the safety plug popped 
out. Since the expansion valve is such a tiny opening, it seems like it 
would be the first thing to plug if you have a bunch of old r-12 oil in 
the system (which I did).

Maybe I can just clean out the clog and reuse it, I don't know.. I haven't 
taken so much as even a 60 second look at it. I just figure the hassle 
involved in replacing it now is much less than if it were installed in the 
car with the system charged.

> 2.  "Replace /all/ the o-rings" to do a successful conversion is often not 
> necessary.  The deal is the new oil and refrigerant supposedly attack the 
> (regular) rubber so you need (green) Viton or Nupron or whatever seals 
> everywhere.  That means digging the dash apart.  Given the relatively cheap 
> price of R134a, you can replace the difficult ones after they fail without 
> much $$ pain and likely get plenty of use before.  But do all of the ones you 
> can.

The system is already completely removed and sitting on my garage floor, 
so I might as well change every O-ring I can find.

> 3.  Dump the kompressor by twisting shaft while tilting.  Most of the oil 
> should be in there and it should feel good when you turn it.  Proper evac 
> involves vac and solvent but it depends how yours sat.  If it was open to the 
> elements, you prolly need the full monty.

It's been in a garage, with duct tape over the ports and all of the old 
r-12 oil and "r-134a and r-12 compatible conversion oil" inside it. The 
duct tape has started to come off on its own (it was mainly to keep junk 
from falling inside) and liquid oil will drip out if I don't keep the 
compressor tilted upright.

> 4.  I hate A/C, never use it, and never fix it.  Why do I know this?

I dunno. I hate A/C too, but it's a necessary evil when daytime 
temperatures are regularly 105 F with the UV scale often at 16/16. I don't 
want to have to take a shower anymore after every time I drive anywhere 
during the daytime.

-Toby