Hypotheticly thinking about paint

[gr8hunter1 at comcast.net (Jacob Hawes)]

>>Well actually, especially on the Mk 1 cars, rust IS the big
>>issue.  It is the number one cause of death for the Mk 1
>>Scirocco.  
>>    
>>
>
>I'd agree with Daun on that, and if rust is going to be cropping up on it,
>think about a colour that won't show it badly, for example, not white.
>
>  
>
The only rust that I have seen is in the drivers door jam. I'm sure 
there is probably some under the carpet or under some under coating. By 
the sound of it I need to save up for longer than planned with a full 
rust removal and paint and under coating.

>>Well, you don't want to go with red or green, which are
>>probably the best choices other than brown with that
>>interior.  Dark blue would be another good choice - one
>>that I would likely go with.  (I wish my old '77 didn't
>>have so much terminal rust, that was the color combo it
>>had.)  Doing a complete color change is an extremely
>>involved process to do well.  Door jambs, engine bay etc. 
>>Your best bet would really be to repaint it in the original
>>Brazil Brown.
>
>Tan / copper / green rocks my world, but what about black? And a nice
>metallic navy would look good too, as would any of the earth tones,
>obviously, like bronze. And you're right, it's not easy being green...
>  
>
No red is partially because there is a red mk2 floating around town. 
There is also at least one black and one that is primer with mars red 
spots. I want to be able to identify mine if it is parked directly next 
to another scirocco. Right now we have a dark green metallic blazer, and 
a black sidekick. The alero was a blue.

>  
>
>>
>>If it were me, I'd concentrate on getting the mechanicals
>>up to snuff, as it sounds like you have a good many things
>>to do in that department first.  I'm of the school that
>>believes in mechanics first, looks second - some people are
>>just the opposite.  Bottom line - do whatever works for you
>>- it is YOUR car.  Just remember that if it's worth doing,
>>it's worth doing right.
>>    
>>
>
>There's sure merit to getting mechanicals done, but if the car is butt
>ugly, it's easier to lose interest than if it looks great. Looks great
>behind a tow truck sucks though.
>  
>
I'm not saying I want to make it look pretty before making it work well. 
I just started thinking about the peeling clear coat and rust and 
figured that it could use a new paint job and while I was at it I might 
tackle the rust. Getting it working is my priority right now (I just 
picked up the struts/shocks/e-brake cables today).

>>
>>In my book, the simplest thing to do is get a pair of reman
>>axles.  Lifetime warranty, and probably quicker to change
>>out than installing new boots on questionable CV joints.
>>(What's the time to beat Cathy - 45 minutes tools out to
>>tools away, in the parking lot at Buffalo airport?)
>>
>>    
>>
I really don't know anything about the current joints. I just know that 
when we got it a couple of boots were torn and it has been driven all of 
40 miles since then. That price is just labor on repacking the joints 
and replacing boots assuming all of them need to be replaced. I really 
hated putting those boots back on. Gunk kept falling in my eye, bearings 
wouldn't get into place, it was just a mess that I think should have 
been so much easier than it was. I imagine that a lift would really help 
matters, but all I have is a little jack and two jack stands. I still 
can't figure out where to put a jack stand when the jack is on the one 
solid point.

-- 
	--Jacob Hawes
Cars:
	'80 Scirocco mk1 searching for a name
Sharp pointy things:
	18" HI Kobra "pillow knife"
	17.5" HI Ang Khola Villager "camp axe"
	~48" Custom XVII longsword. unnamed