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Diesel crank in a 16v???



I've got a full supersprint exhaust already on my car. Header to the
tailpipe. I don't want to change it since it works well now. Don't think
there will be any restrictions on that end. As far as intake I'm not
changing anything. Individual throttle bodies are really expensive and hard
to find. I was going to get a 50mm intake but my guy mentioned that with a
built head it is a wash. Saving $500 sounded good to me if I didn't really
get anything out of it. My guy that is doing the install mentioned nothing
about CIS issues. I'm most likely going with a megasquirt system this summer
though. CIS sucks and is really unreliable. I may even just swap over to
Motronic for now. That is easy enough I can do myself. Megasquirt is
supposed to be easy but after reading some of the boards on the issue it may
be easy for some one with an engineering degree. With a minor in fluid
dynamics.

I was going to put a BBM blower in the mix but would have to suffer with
lower compression for a time till I save up the dough for that. This motor
alone is about $5k. Not including clutch, cams and waterpump, etc..... Just
the built block and the head. Relative to a full on race motor it is pretty
cheap but to me it is kind of expensive.








On 2/1/06, Dan Bubb <jdbubb@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> So, what are you doing for intake and exhaust?
> Techtonics says their 2.5" exhaust is too big even for an all out NA
> engine and is meant for turbo's or superchargers. Might work with your
> 2.2L displacement though.
> Also, wondering if you're going with ITB's. CIS has an inherent intake
> restriction with the airflow meter that might make it difficult to hit your
> desired power level.
> Dan
>
> From: "Lance LaPrarie" <sciroccojunky@gmail.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 1:49 PM
>
> Not sure all the stuff involved in getting the displacement. I know that
> the
> shop that is building it had to get the diesel crank, connecting rods and
> pistons. Those are key to getting that displacement. They have the block
> punched out and honed already. I guess I got the last crank in the US. Not
> sure if they will be able to get more. The head is being built as well.
> Full
> stage three job. Going with Techtonics cams. Should be good for about 200
> WHP. Best thing is that it is all motor. Should be pretty sweet.
>
> On a side note, anyone have a peloquin dif for sale that will work in a
> factory 16v scirocco trans? Having the tranny rebuilt and want to get one
> installed at the same time. I have cash.
>
> Thanks!!
>
>
> On 2/1/06, Dan Bubb <jdbubb@verizon.net> wrote:
> >
> > 2.2?
> > Diesel crank is 95.5. Right?
> > So, how big is the bore going to be?
> >
> >
> > >From: "Lance LaPrarie" <sciroccojunky@gmail.com>
> > >Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:00 PM
> > >
> > >I am currently having a 2.2 litre motor built. It uses a diesel crank
> and
> > >new JE pistons and connecting rods. It requires a 2 litre block to
> work.
> > >Don't think someone put a diesel crank in your motor.
> > >
> > >On the starter issue. My car was slighly out of time due to a generous
> > >mechanic trying to boost power by retrding the timing. It was hard to
> > crank
> > >over after that. Once the timing was adjusted correctly it fired and
> > cranked
> > >easy.
> > >
> > >My two cents.
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 1/31/06, Dan Bubb <jdbubb@verizon.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > A 2.0L 16V has a very noticeable increase in mid range torque over a
> > 1.8L.
> > > If you had one of each there would never be any doubt which one you
> were
> > > driving. So, it's probably not a 2.1L if it feels about the same as a
> > 1.8L
> > > .
> > > ETKA indicates the crank bearing shells are the same between gas and
> > > diesel engines, so the crank will drop into the block. Course that
> > doesn't
> > > mean the connecting rod won't hit the side of the block!
> > > Just to keep stirring the pot on this, you cannot simply swap longer
> > > stroke cranks into an engine without also changing either the rods or
> > > pistons, and it's almost always the piston. Aftermarket pistons are
> > designed
> > > to a specific CR that takes into account the difference in
> displacement.
> > So,
> > > basically, even if the engine had a diesel crank, the CR isn't
> > necessarily
> > > any higher than stock.
> > > Sorry, I can't help on the starter motor issue.
> > > Dan
> > >
> > > From: "C Boyko" <roccit_53@scirocco.cs.uoguelph.ca>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:23 PM
> > >
> > > > On 9:07:14 am 01/31/06 "Calimus" <calimus@techography.net> wrote:
> > > >> Is there a chance that someone would and could put a diesel crank
> in
> > > >> a 16v (1.8 flavor)?  If so, the block would have to be line-bored
> > > >> correct?  An rather then the crank bearing being .20 they might
> need
> > > >> to be about .25?
> > > >> I'm asking because the rocco the wife picked up had a diesel
> starter
> > > >> in it that died over the course of the day.  No biggie, I replaced
> it
> > > >> with a standard sarter that I had layin around.  However, it seems
> > > >> the the starter (which was in perfect working order when I removed
> it
> > > >> from a car) seems to have trouble turning the engine the first few
> > > >> revolutions.  It doesn't seem like a power (electricity) issue as
> the
> > > >> cables to ground and to the starter are about 4 guage.  Not as
> beefy
> > > >> as I normally go, but pretty damn close. The battery is only 4
> months
> > > >> old and has more then enough CCA's.
> > > >> So I wondered that if maybe someone tossed a diesel crank in the
> car
> > > >> at some point, which boosted the compression (i'm guessing around
> > > >> 11.0:1) so they added the diesel starter to help compensate.?
> > > >>
> > > >> Is this possible?  An if so, why might they have done it.  The cars
> > > >> power feels pretty good, but it's nothing major over my worn out
> 16v
> > > >> rocco with bad motor mounts, cracked exhaust and 300k miles.
> > > >>
> > > >> Anyway, just curious if I could be onto something or if I'm smoking
> > > >> crack.
> > > >> William S.
> > > >>
> > > > I dunno about the crank, but often wiring can make it seem slow the
> > > first
> > > > few times over, sometiumes the smaller wires to the starter or coil
> > get
> > > > jarred loose and behave like that, and check the security of that
> > tranny
> > > > ground too. And maybe I'm on crack too..
> > > > Cathy
> > > >
> > > >
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> > > >
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