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Re: BRAKE Question - 10.1 or 11 on a mk1?

Yup! Yup! Uh-Huh! Uh-Huh! :)

I could feel a HUGE difference in acceleration when I went to a 16" wheel on my
old 16v from the stock 14" teardrops. This was despite that fact that the
overall weight of the wheel/tire combo was roughly the same, and the outside
diameter of the tire was actually a tad shorter! Bigger rotors definitely will
rob a few whp.

In my case, I have two things going for me. First, lots of horsepower makes
rotating mass less of an issue, but it doesn't change anything relative to
unsprung weight (the suspension/body don't change due to HP). So a reduction in
unsprung mass is good even if the rotating mass goes up a tad. Also, if I am
focused exclusively on autocross, I can swiss-cheese the HECK out of my rotors,
which will help the rotating mass a lot, and then put "normal" rotors on for
track days.

Neal

--- Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> wrote:


--- nocones77-vw@yahoo.com wrote:
> ...I'd be going for reduction
> in unsprung weight more than anything else. I'm actually trying to see if I
can
> find aluminum hats and 9.4" rotors, but it seems like most out there start
at
> 10".
> > ... rotor heat is still the driving factor... 

The effects of diameter on resistance to speed change of a rotating mass are
HUGE.  Therefore,
larger rotors work AGAINST you because they themselves require more engery to
be spent slowing
them down.  Or speeding them up.  But they do provide more surface area from
which to dissipate
heat, which is really all we're trying to do here.  Every bit of the energy
to slow your car down
is disspated in heat.  Unless you have an electric car and you've got
regenerative braking, but
that's another story.
Unsprung weight is a whole nother topic as well. 
In short, what Neal said.  Which started (pat on back) with essentially "what
Ron said."

I'm glad you agree Neal!



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