[no subject]

[rapieper at yahoo.com (Ron Pieper)]

Answers and viewpoints within, HTH a little.

--- SeanSki's Yahoo account <seanski44@yahoo.com> wrote:
 > The haynes (aka Book of Lies) says you need a valve
> compressor with a 'long claw' I presume its referring
> to the size of the jaws. what I need to know is which
> tool to buy from machine mart! Anyone? will the one
> with 155mmjaw and 160mm throat be ok or should I go
> for the more expensive 175mm jaw and 165mm throat!>?!?
> Sorry, don't know what this is in inches guys!! ;)

Mine has a 9" throat (ummm...229mm) and 7 7/8" jaws (200mm) and it's plenty big.  Can't tell you
how much smaller you can go, sorry.  But those are good specs for a bad woman, anyhow.

> Also, I have ordered a head gasket set from
> eurocarparts, but wonder which other gaskets are
> needed - the haynes says to remove the head with the
> inlet and outlet manifolds still connected - is this
> best, if so which other gaskets would be needed? 

Check to see what the set contains - it may get you valve stem seals, cam seals, valve cover
gasket (get the Corrado rubber one!!!), intake and exhaust mani gaskets, TB gasket, and coolant
neck gasket.  You'll want them all.

Yes it's a lot easier to remove the head with the mani's attached *IF* you have the back for it. 
It's a bend-over-at-the-waist-and-lift situation, and that is pure hell on lumbar disks.

Don't remove the exhaust mani unless you have to.  You may (read: will) encounter broken studs and
that could end up extending the project a bit.

> And.... (sorry to make it such a long post) there are
> two special tools needed according to the haynes,
> there's one to insert the stem seals (VW 10 204?) and
> one for removal of the exhaust downpipe... 

Do an archive search here or at vwvortex on the downpipe issue.  You may want a shop to remove and
insert the seals.  You don't want to get this wrapped up and find out you are back where you
started!  Getting the old seals off is a PITA without a proper tool.

You may not want to hear it but it's a great time for a valve job.  We have a great shop here in
town that will do an 8V for $75.  A long swim for you tho!

> BTW, while I'm at it, which oil shall I pop in after?

Something cheap for the first few hours then a better grade - you'll probably get dirt and coolant
down there so use the cheap to flush out the crap.

Good luck and take your time!

Ron


=====
Cheapass Ron
"Victor Jr." - '81 Scirocco S 7SM
2.0L 16V w/ Megasquirt, Quaifed GL 4-speed
It's Alive!!!