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Can't get the wheel off.
Funny coincidence, I went through the same thing today. I had to swap
my bald front winter tires (man do those things ever have an aversion to
a heavy right foot) to the back so I could make the rainy trip to
Toronto today to buy a set of teardrops with rubber for cheap...
Here?s how I jerked, errrr whacked, errrrrrrr got off (the wheel that
is). I spun the raised wheel and whacked the back of the tire with my
long beefy handle (from my hydraulic jack you perv :D)... It took a lot
of hitting, but it finally came off. I've done the same in the past
with a long piece of 2x4, and a long prybar. The trick is to spin the
wheel and hit roughly the opposite side you just hit (ie: if you keep
hitting it in the same spot you're likely just making things worse).
Just smack the hell out of it. It's easier to get a good hit with a
LONG piece of wood or whatever you have lying around. The jack handle
worked well today, but if you miss the tire with something like this you
may damage your wheel. You also run the risk of damaging the tire, but
I have yet to have any problems, and I run into this scenario every once
in a while. The force a hammer puts on the wheel is nothing compared to
winding up and taking a good swing at it with a piece of wood with Mr.
Momentum (cousin of Mr. Leverage) behind it. Wire wheel the whole area
and anti-sneeze it after you get the wheel off to make it easier next
time...
Mark.
75
77
80 S
81
81 S 2.0 ABA/JH/4K
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org [mailto:scirocco-l-
> bounces@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of C Boyko
> Sent: May 2, 2004 11:07 PM
> To: amalventano@sc.rr.com; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: Re: Can't get the wheel off.
>
> Well, here is the result : Dropped the car about 6 times, it felt
really
> good BTW. Gas sloshed around in the tank, so it was a decent drop. (as
> high
> as my jack would go) In conjunction with heat, pounding, and whatever,
> that
> sucker is still on there. I'm guessing it will fracture the front of
the
> drum off before the "galvanic corrosion" will yield. Figures there's
> electrical activity where I don't want it (I'm assuming it's a little
> cell
> setting up in there) - there is often none where I do want it. BUT I
think
> the E brake let go, yay, it's likley broken now too. I had it set to
give
> me
> something solid to hammer against.
> I'm finding my cat and going to bed.
> Cathy
>
>
> >From: "Allyn" <amalventano@sc.rr.com>
> >To: "C Boyko" <roccit_53@hotmail.com>, <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> >Subject: Re: Can't get the wheel off.
> >Date: Sun, 2 May 2004 22:09:44 -0400
> >
> >once you do get that wheel off, you might want to do some light
coating
> of
> >wheel bearing grease in there. very light. the intent is to prevent
water
> >from seeping in the contact area, which in turn causes galvanic
corrosion
> >between the wheel and hub (which causes the white flaky stuff).
> >p.s. the rieger wheels do this to me as well. specifically the
fronts. it
> >usually doesn't take more than a few good kicks. i have occasionally
had
> to
> >resort to Wagner's 2-lug theory (but i keep all 4 in, just backed out
a
> few
> >turns). i then jack that corner as high as i can, then completely
dump
> the
> >car to the ground. sometimes just shaking it just wont cut it.
speaking
> of
> >'shaking it', there's always Anson's 'jack it off' idea, which sounds
> good,
> >albeit in more ways than one...
> >hth
> >Al
> >
>
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