Need some tranny rebuild ?'s addressed (Help Ron??)

[jdbubb at ix.netcom.com (Dan Bubb)]

I'll interject below and hopefully manage to be clear.
>
> On Sun, 11 Apr 2004, Dan Bubb wrote:
>
> <snip>
> > > 1.) So I REALLY need to worry about changing out the S3 shim and the
> > > roller bearing race? Is there a less specialty tool intensive (Re: the
> > > VW294b/3 - VW387 - VW385/17 measuring tool combo) way to check the S3 shim
> > > suitability? I see the shim thicknesses range from 0.65mm to 1.40mm.
> >
> > I presume you are replacing the pinion shaft bearings? If not just reassemble. If you are then
the
> > two easiest ways to remove the bearing race pressed into the bell housing side of the case are:
> > 1. Put it face down in an oven and heat it to 400 degrees.
> > 2. Make a special fitting for a slide hammer by heating, forming and grinding one of the regular
> > "claws".
> >
> > The third way (that I did once in 1982 and will never stoop to again) is to take the case and
pinion
> > shaft to the dealer and have them set it up.
> >
> > Were you interested in the Dan Bubb special technique for measuring bearing clearance?
>
> Actually, the pinion shaft bearings are in fine shape as far as I can
> tell, but should be replaced if I can?
> I mean, of course I don't WANT to but if I should while I'm here I might
> as well shuffle a little closer to the poor house and purchase new.

Couple thoughts here.
1. The small pinion bearing is generally the first thing to fail in the tranny. And the cone (part
pressed onto the pinion shaft) can fail (become pitted) without any evidence on the rollers. So,
yeah, it's a good idea to replace it.
2. The small pinion bearing is the absolute bitch of the transmission world. It sucks to get the
cone off the shaft and it sucks to get the cup out of the case.
The cup options are detailed above. The easiest way to get the cone off the pinion shaft it to heat
it with an oxy/acetelyne torch. Get it red hot as fast as you can without heating the rest of the
shaft and it will fall off. The issue here is you have to be careful to not heat the pinion gear
teeth so they loose their temper!!!!!
Other options such as hammer and punches will work but take patience. The press and bearing puller
approach has yet to work for me.

BTW the dealership will only sell the large pinion bearing with the retainer plate. >$100!!
You can buy just the bearing and press it into the plate. It's not rocket science! Germanautoparts
has it for $20. Their PN 411.501.283E
Also, shims for the small pinion bearing can be bought at www.mcmaster.com for a lot less than the
VW dealer.

>
> But the patented "Dan Bubb special technique" of bearing clearance
> measurement would be MOST appreciated and actually what I was fishing for!

Obviously, if you have a dial indicator it makes life really simple here and the Bentley is pretty
clear. If you don't have a dial indicator it is possible to find the clearance using feeler gauges.
You start by putting in a too thick shim so you're guarenteed to have clearance. then you space the
bearing retainer (pinion shaft) or case half (diff bearings) with feeler gauges. Place three feelers
evenly spaced under the plate or case half right next to bolt holes. Install bolts only next to the
feeler gauges. Don't torque the bolts, just snug them or you'll dent the aluminum. Check for shaft
free play. If you have any reduce feeler thickness and repeat until there is not clearance. It's a
pain, but it's accurate if you're careful.  Then calculate shim thickness. Remember to include the
gasket thickness (.012 or .3mm) if you're setting up the diff bearings.

>
> > > 2.) Those pesky needle bearings! They have gone throught the rigorous
> > > cleanliness regime that the case has (being that they have not been
> > > removed from said case). The spin nice and non-crackley and there seems to
> > > be little to no sideplay to them. I know that I SHOULD replace them but
> > > was wondering if I can cheapass it yet again and skip the replacement and
> > > just lightly grease the beejeezus out of them and reuse.
> >
> > I think that one time I've got really anal and replaced the needle bearings. Generally they're
fine,
> > so unless you can see pitting on the needles I'd leave them.
>
> Nope! No discernable pittage be happenin' and even though I should be
> incredibley anal about this too, I'm starting to feel the time pressure of
> June and so IF I can slide on this I probably will and give them a light
> coating for grease during re-assembly.

> > > 3.) This one IS sorta Ron specific. It seems that he rebuilt a 9A for
> > > Patrick and used chromoly synchros in the rebuild. Anyone no where these
> > > bad boys may be acquired?
> >
> > I've seen brass rings and coated brass rings (generally used on 2nd gear since it gets worked
the
> > hardest). Wouldn't a steel ring on a steel gear wear the gear surface which you wouldn't want?
Yeah,
> > I'd like to know more about this.
>
> Inquiring minds want to know!
>
> > > 4.) Pressing out the selector shaft I was able to crack one side of the
> > > top of the shift finger where the clevis pin goes through. The crack is
> > > tiny but does admit light through it. New shift finger time or no?
> >
> > I'm not really positive what you're talking about here, but if it's the part I think it is it
should
> > be replaced.
>
> This is the shift finger that slides between the "C" shaped one on the
> selector shaft and independently manipulates the 3rd/4th gear shift fork
> shaped roughly thus (Yea Gods it's been sooooo long since I've tried my
> ASCII drawing skills this might obsfucate things even more):
>
>
>          _I_
>       /X _I_ X\
>    __/X/  I   \X\___xXx\
>   lXXX(   I    )XXXXXXXx1
>    --\X\  I   /X/-- xXx/
>       \XX-X-XX/
>         -----
> This is a side view w/ the I's representing where the clevis pin goes
> through the selector shaft..

Yeah, I think we're talking about the same thing. I can't imagine how you busted it cause it should
just slide out, so make sure the other shift linkage parts are not bent. But, in any event I'd still
replace the cracked part.

>
> > > 5.) Anybody have ANY idea what a turning torque of 0.5 to 1.4Nm (50 to
> > > 150Ncm or 4.5 13 in lb.) or .3 Nm (30Ncm or 2.7 in. lb.) feels like??????
> >
> > Roughly, you should be able to grab the shaft with your hand and rotate it. It shouldn't turn
> > easily, but also it shouldn't test your grip ;^)
>
> This is EXACTLY what I was asking sir!! Thank you!!

Hope you're having fun! Even after you've done a few trannies are still work!
Dan

>
> Less cornfused (DeKalbacized),
>
> Tim
>