Pissing Conest (WTB: 3a from Audi 80)

[mardak at cogeco.ca (Mark)]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bryan Rankin [mailto:d_x20@hotmail.com]
> Sent: April 7, 2004 6:25 PM
> To: mardak@cogeco.ca; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: RE: Pissing Conest (WTB: 3a from Audi 80)
> 
> WOW, so, can we get back on topic here?
> Does shortblock mean just the block?  I thought it meant the block
with
> pistons and a crank, basically everything but the head and tranny.


Normally a short block is just the bottom end (crank, pistons, etc
included) without the head or accessories.


> What I basically wanted, was the
> block, but to replace some of the parts like rings and bearings and
etc.
> My cousin is a machinist, and his old boss will let us use the shop
for a
> case of Bud.


Can't go wrong with that!  :D  Do they have a crankshaft grinder?  Not
all shops have one, and not all machinists know how to operate one.
It's a tricky procedure.  I did this for about a year, and to be honest
it's hard to get the entire crank 'perfect'.

 
> I have thought about the ABA, it does sound like a pretty good idea,
but I
> just figured the 3a would be alot easier to install.  I was thinking
the
> dp
> would be expensive, but I supposed if I find an ABA cheap enough, i
could
> get away with spending the extra dough on the dp.


You can always make a "spacer" like I did, and use your existing
downpipe.  Use a piece of 3/8" steel plate, and use the gasket and
exhaust manifold as templates (the gasket for the stud-holes, and the
manifold for the "exhaust holes" (the holes in the gasket are much
larger than the passages).  A couple hours with a drill press and a die
grinder (or dremel if you're a glutton for punishment :D) and you're
done...


> I didn't think that
> you
> could use the 9a with an 8v head...so i didn't bother looking for a
9a,
> I'd
> like to keep my 8 valves.  How does the ABA sit under neath the hood?


If you use a JH head, there aren't any clearance issues.


> Is
> clearance an issue?  With the 3a, some said it is torqueir (is that a
> word),
> what I really want out of the engine is response and acceleration for
auto
> xing.


Either one will be a perfect autox engine - lots of torque to haul
yourself out of all the tight corners.  I would guess that the torque
difference between the two engines is minimal though.  Don't base your
entire decision on a couple ft/lbs either way.

 
> After going through all of those emails, i have kind of lost track of
who
> has 3a blocks, if you guys could send me and email with your location
and
> asking price that'd be great.
> 
> Sorry to make the list explode, I just want an engine.


My take on your situation is that if you're going to overhaul the engine
anyway, and if you can find a 3a for a decent price it would be your
cheapest option.   You might be opening up a can of worms by tearing
into the 3a though...  All those little parts you replace during a
rebuild add up!  You might want to add up your costs for each scenario
and then make your decision.

Mark.
75
80 S
81 S  2.0 ABA/JH/4K


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