(WTB: 3a from Audi 80) - Now ABA vs. 3A

[tim at unrealexpectations.ath.cx (stetson)]

Seems there are proponents from the 3A and ABA camps here on the list.

They BOTH have their strong points and should be researched according to
what YOU want in your engine swap.

I'll tell you My criteria for MY choice.

It's noted on multiple swap pages that mention both types that the ABA has
longer rods which make for a smoother feeling engine and that the shorter
rods in the 3A give more a a snappy/torquey response (more like a go
cart).

I like that snappy feeling. 1 point for 3A.

Reportedly (although I can't tell you WHERE I saw it) 3A's are all
supposed to have forged cranks. I've learned that ABA's come in 2 flavors
(OBD1 and OBD2) and I beleive the 2 variety does not have a forged crank.

I'm simple and need to avoid getting the wrong one. 1 point for 3A.

Last late summer I put in a new exhaust system (pretty much the mirror
image of Patrick's due to his posts on the 'tex) which set me back about
$300 all told. Since ABA's are taller, you need a new downpipe for the
setup and I did NOT want to have to buy another one. 3A's are the same
height as a JH.

Cheapass (pardon Ron) me "saves" some money. 1 point for 3A.

As I've mentioned in my other 3A posts, the block is now in the machine
shop. It wouldn't be IF the prevailent smell of sulphur weren't present
when I yanked the oil pan. Sulphur smell = old overused oil and probable
mistreatment. An Audi or VW engine should still be in pretty decent shape
if properly cared for during it's service, even at 100K+ mi. but when I
smelled that I knew that I should probably get everything checked out and
if not kosher, milled to "new". I was originally planning on just throwing
on a JH head and calling it done but now will have the extra expense of
machining BUT have the extra added peace of mind that a "new" bottom end
will give me.

ABA's can be found easily w/ less than 50K mi. 1 point for ABA.

As I've posted before, it took me 3 mo. of looking for a 3A to find one. I
almost spent 2X what I finally did on one that I would have to cross 2
states to pick up.

ABA's can usually be found in a wrecked Dub easily. 1 point for ABA.

These were my reasons for going 3A. More expensive it's true, but at the
end of this I hope to have a completely rebuilt and virtually new drive
train for under $1K.

Examine the reasons you want to upgrade. Think about the type of driving
you do or want to do. Think about how much you want to "get into" your
engine swap. Weigh these things and make your own decision.

There is a lot of good information that this thread has generated! (I'm
really curious about this 3A/9A almost the same engine thing!)

Use it to make the most informed choice YOU can.

My plug nickel,

Tim



A man who fishes for marlin in ponds
will put his money in Etruscan bonds.

On Wed, 7 Apr 2004, Bryan Rankin wrote:

>
> I plan on getting the harness from from a company in British Columbia, they
> sell it ready to plug and play, so intstallation will be easy and about 30
> mins.  I have a head that i'm planning on getting from RSC Tuning(he spells
> it Tunning), I seen the discussion, but for $500 canadian, i feel i'm
> getting a good enough deal, and supporting the local economy.    I thought
> it was only the ABA that needed the block off plate, but if i need it, a
> company in Calgary sells it.   If I could have the email of that guy, it'd
> be great, but I think shipping is gonna kill me.  I'm located pretty high up
> in Canada, but if no one in Alberta has it, i guess thats the route i'll
> have to go.  I plan to do a 1.8JH head on it btw.
>
> If i get the 3a distributor, will i need a different wiring harness to mate
> it up with a knock sensor?
> I'm not 100% knowlegeable on this swap, so if i'm not making sense(do I
> ever?) please, please correct me.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bryan
> 81 Volkswagen Scirocco
>
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