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Transaxle question...



OK, so does anyone have an online tutorial on rebuilding an 020?  Or are there any manuals that cover it (in more depth than the Bentley - it doesn't have much on tranny building).
I plan on rebuilding a 4K I got from Patrick, so a list of all the special tools required, a detailed list of parts required, and any tips would be GREATLY appreciated.

> 
> From: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
> Date: 2003/10/10 Fri AM 03:13:58 EDT
> To: jester@westfailure.net
> CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: Re: Transaxle question...
> 
> Disclaimer: I have only done this once; but the tranny I did it to still
> works perfect and has gone several thousand miles so far. Use this
> information at your own risk.
> 
> > I have made all the tools I need and successfully torn down a junk 020,
> > now need to figure out how to reassemble correctly before tearing into my
> > good transaxle. Looks pretty straightforward from reading bently, but...
> >
> > couple of questions:
> > 1) does anyone use the special tool that goes across the bellhousing on
> > the flywheel side to support the mainshaft when you press/hammer the case
> > back together? (my guess was I could support the clutch end of the
> > mainshaft on a hardwood or soft metal block while banging the case bearing
> > back onto it.)
> 
> I didn't use anything IIRC. Just set the top of the case on to the bottom
> of the case, then drop in the bolts and tighten them evenly.. the case
> halves should 'plop' together with no effort at all. Do keep trying to
> spin the shafts though to make sure the bearings are seating properly. In
> my case they got hard to turn the first time I put the case halves
> together and I freaked out; but I resolved it (can't remember how exactly;
> it's written in my log though) without anything breaking.
> 
> > 2) is there any reason I could not reassemble the transaxle without a
> > press? I have done front bearings on an a1&a2 with big sockets & big
> > hammers, and have done plenty of engine work where you heat gears in an
> > oilbath to reinstall.
> >
> > All I plan to do is install a bolt kit & reassemble, no shimming or
> > bearing replacement hopefully, I probably would need a press for that.
> 
> You ***NEED*** a press to do the bolt kit. The bolts deform as you press
> them in (their diameter is larger than that of the holes). If you know
> someone with a press it takes 20 minutes tops to do all 8 bolts, including
> set-up time. Don't try to do it any other way.
> 
> Hell; if there's an automotive/tool store in your area that sells presses,
> just cruise in there with the differential tucked under you shirt and have
> a friend block you from view while you discretely press the bolts in then
> sneak out. Even such a 'covert ops' task would be easier than installing
> the bolts w/o a press. Before I broke down and bought a press I tried a
> 1-ton "hand press" and it did nothing at all, even with a 6 ft breaker bar
> (well; it destroyed the press.. but the bolts didn't budge)
> 
> It is crucial that you press the bolts in the right direction. Ask me how
> I know (or my wallet.. tho$e bolt$ are non-reu$able once you pre$$ them
> in).
> 
> For me, the whole bolt kit thing was a bit of an ordeal. Make sure you
> drill from the dimpled sides (yeah, i know.. "duh!"; but hindsight is
> 20/20.. especially when you interpret credible instructions to say
> otherwise) and use very hard drill bits. I built a 'jig' out of 4x4s and
> 2x4s screwed together to hold the diff still while I drilled; and I clampd
> that whole contraption to the drill press. I recommend doing something
> similar; if the drill bit bites for any reason it can really hurt your
> wrist when the whole 15 lb diff+ring gear hits you with force. (In theory,
> of course..)
> 
> If you have any other questions feel free to e-mail me.. I have lots of
> pics of the tranny internals too if you need help.
> 
> -Toby
> 
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