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[TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...



Dan,  I was going to suggest the same thing. That's how mine is wired. Got
to do it as the CIS-E Switches send a positive signal but the older Lamda
control units need a ground to go WOT. Switch the current(via relay) & your
in biz!

Patrick,  If I had a head or $800 to spare I'd hand it over....If you have
one in the works it will help out. Those motors need it to breathe. Still
that thing it a torque monster! 118lbs of torque!...my 1.8 8v is only
getting 111.

Good luck...

****When replying please copy in any original text that we have been
previously discussing, Thank you!***
Mike Potter
Virtual World Parts Inc.
Sales@parts4vws.com
909-694-8600x103
888-389-7278x103

-----Original Message-----
From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Dan Bubb
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 8:27 AM
To: Patrick Bureau; _Scirocco Mailing List
Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...


Well, they aren't used by the KS ignition, but the CIS ecu still needs them.
Do me a huge favor.
Splice into the voilet wire that runs from the KS WOT switch to pin 8 on the
KS ecu. This wire should have 12V when the switch is tripped. Run the wire
from the splice to a small relay. Connect it to the relay coil. Ground the
other side of the relay coil. Now take the two wires that used to go to the
old WOT switch and connect them to the two contacts on the relay that are
shorted when the relay is activated.
shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to rig this up for a quick test.
Or better yet, just take the two wires that used to go to the old WOT
switch. Short them together. With the engine idling the idle should improve
slightly when they are shorted. Anyway, short them together and go for a
test drive and see if the engine has more power.
If that works rig up the relay.
LMK
Dan
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Patrick Bureau
  To: Dan Bubb ; _Scirocco Mailing List
  Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:10 AM
  Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...


  no where.
  patched and laying in tray, I assumed these whe no longer used by the ecu

  Dan Bubb <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
    OK. That addresses the KS ignition switches.
    What about the wires that went to the WOT switch that was on your car
before
    you swapped to the Audi 5000 throttle body?
    Where are they connected?

    ----- Original Message -----
    From: "Patrick Bureau"
    To: "Dan Bubb" ; "_Scirocco Mailing List"

    Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:55 AM
    Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...


    > I used this diagram install the knock box and switches to my car
    >
    htm>
    >
    > Dan Bubb wrote:
    > So, Patrick!
    > What exactly did you do with the wires that ran to the CIS WOT switch
when
    > you did your conversion and added the KS ignition?
    > Dan
    >
    > ----- Original Message -----
    > From: "ATS - Patrick Bureau"
    > To: "Dan Bubb" ; "_Scirocco Mailing List"
    >
    > Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 11:13 PM
    > Subject: RE: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
    >
    >
    > > Mr Potter : headwork... yes I know... got 800$ to spare ? hehe I am
    > working
    > > on saving the cash for a full blow reworked head (ie: racing specs)
    > >
    > > Dan: as always Appreciate your inputs (even if we diagree about that
    > 8v/16v
    > > thing eheh)
    > >
    > > 1. the TB is audi5000, I use CIS-Lambda with 16v Knock sensor/box,
and
    > this
    > > included the 16v TB switches setup (2 switches),you may be on to
    somthing
    > > about the fuel mix, (It hink it may be fuel pressure and wil check
that
    > > soon), but enrichment switch.. humm. wil have to test the switches
to
    see
    > if
    > > one failed on me. good point
    > >
    > > 2. the fuel/air mix is not 15:1 , but close (14.8:1 average) and I
see
    > your
    > > point.
    > >
    > > 3. I am working on geting a head reworked, as for springs, if I did
go
    > > 268-272 cam would I need to change for HD ?
    > >
    > >
    > > ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
    > > ----------------------------------------------
    > > MSN:ATSGTX@hotmail.com |YAHOO:ATSGTX@yahoo.com
    > > ICQ:32918816 |AIM:Texasscirocco
    > > ----------------------------------------------
    > >
    > >
    > > =>-----Original Message-----
    > > =>From: Dan Bubb [mailto:jdbubb@ix.netcom.com]
    > > =>Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 6:18 PM
    > > =>To: ATS - Patrick Bureau; _Scirocco Mailing List
    > > =>Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
    > > =>
    > > =>
    > > =>Personally, I thought you'd be 115-118 HP so this is a suprise!
    > > =>There's really no way to compare my engine to yours because of
    > > =>the Haltech,
    > > =>but I still have some input (don't I always!)
    > > =>A week ago I was going to suggest you include A/F ratio in your
    > > =>runs, but I
    > > =>see you have. There's a huge clue right there! Dead on 15:1 across
the
    > > =>board! CIS is awesome it can hold stoichometric so accurately!
    > > =>Now, (this is Dan the Parent!) how many times did I give input on
    > > =>setting up
    > > =>your CIS WOT switch???? If you're running at 15:1 then your switch
    isn't
    > > =>triggering or there is some problem with the wiring or something.
Your
    > > =>engine is constantly running closed loop. With the switch it'd go
    > > =>open loop
    > > =>and drop to mid 13:1 (I presume). Now we talked briefly about
    > > =>this at Cincy,
    > > =>but the KS ignition WOT switch is not the CIS WOT switch and as
far as
    I
    > > =>know they don't have any interconnection, but whatever, your CIS
    > > =>WOT switch
    > > =>is clearly not working or connected.
    > > =>So, step one is get the frigging WOT switch wired and working. I
    > > =>bet that'd
    > > =>give you 5-10 HP right there.
    > > =>The next items that come to mind are:
    > > =>1) head, the stock GTI head just isn't that high flow. You need a
    ported
    > > =>head to start making big power with the 8V (one friggen smart
    > > =>crack from the
    > > =>16V guys! Just one!). Not sure if a cam will do much without the
    > > =>head work.
    > > =>My recollection (this is Dan the old fart speaking) when I was
running
    a
    > > =>stock head going to a bigger cam with the 2.0 just gutted the
bottom
    end
    > > =>without adding anything to the top. I have no objective data and
the
    > butt
    > > =>dyno is a notorious lier, so take that as you wish.
    > > =>2) cam. The G grind is a good mild cam. You want an 8V to make
power
    you
    > > =>need something that'll make your idle good and lumpy. 272, 280!
    > > =>They do hurt
    > > =>the bottom end, but the 2.0 can loose some bottom end and still
have
    > > =>terrific off the line acceleration.
    > > =>3)why the hell are you running a 16V KS box? A 16V isn't an 8V and
the
    > > =>ignition curve is undoubtedly different. Despite your mods I think
you
    > > =>should be running an 8V KS box. Just my opinion.
    > > =>My exhaust, flywheel, fuel pumps, CR are the substantially the
    > > =>same as yours
    > > =>and they support alot more HP so those aren't a big issue for
upgrade.
    > > =>Maybe I'll think of more later.
    > > =>I bet you could work out the CIS WOT switch before you go to work
    > > =>tomorrow.
    > > =>There's a noticable difference!
    > > =>HTH!
    > > =>Dan
    > > =>
    > > =>
    > > =>
    > > =>----- Original Message -----
    > > =>From: ATS - Patrick Bureau
    > > =>To: _Scirocco Mailing List
    > > =>Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 4:01 PM
    > > =>Subject: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
    > > =>
    > > =>
    > > =>> alright after all my work here is the results I got for my
8v....
    > > =>>
    > > =>> Best run 97.9HP @ 5200 RPM with 118.9 ft torque @ 3100 RPM,
dwell
    set
    > at
    > > =>60'
    > > =>> and timing at 14' idle, 28' @ 3000 rpm.





  ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
  '85 2.0L Prowler Orange, Kamei X1 Rocco
  '84 1.8L Silver Restoration and '83 Rocco Trailer Project
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