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[TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...



Back in the day when I had CIS I just set the CIS WOT switch right on top of
the KS WOT switch. Maybe a dumb way to do it but it worked.
Strangely enough the weight of that additional little switch was enough to
break the switch bracket several times before I welded a 1/4" thick bar
across it. It was ugly! Big old heavy bracket and a bunch of switch wires.
Dan

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Potter" <Potterman@parts4vws.com>
To: "Dan Bubb" <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com>; "Patrick Bureau"
<txrocco@sbcglobal.net>; "_Scirocco Mailing List" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:56 AM
Subject: RE: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...


> Dan,  I was going to suggest the same thing. That's how mine is wired. Got
> to do it as the CIS-E Switches send a positive signal but the older Lamda
> control units need a ground to go WOT. Switch the current(via relay) &
your
> in biz!
>
> Patrick,  If I had a head or $800 to spare I'd hand it over....If you have
> one in the works it will help out. Those motors need it to breathe. Still
> that thing it a torque monster! 118lbs of torque!...my 1.8 8v is only
> getting 111.
>
> Good luck...
>
> ****When replying please copy in any original text that we have been
> previously discussing, Thank you!***
> Mike Potter
> Virtual World Parts Inc.
> Sales@parts4vws.com
> 909-694-8600x103
> 888-389-7278x103
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
> [mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Dan Bubb
> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 8:27 AM
> To: Patrick Bureau; _Scirocco Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>
>
> Well, they aren't used by the KS ignition, but the CIS ecu still needs
them.
> Do me a huge favor.
> Splice into the voilet wire that runs from the KS WOT switch to pin 8 on
the
> KS ecu. This wire should have 12V when the switch is tripped. Run the wire
> from the splice to a small relay. Connect it to the relay coil. Ground the
> other side of the relay coil. Now take the two wires that used to go to
the
> old WOT switch and connect them to the two contacts on the relay that are
> shorted when the relay is activated.
> shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes to rig this up for a quick test.
> Or better yet, just take the two wires that used to go to the old WOT
> switch. Short them together. With the engine idling the idle should
improve
> slightly when they are shorted. Anyway, short them together and go for a
> test drive and see if the engine has more power.
> If that works rig up the relay.
> LMK
> Dan
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Patrick Bureau
>   To: Dan Bubb ; _Scirocco Mailing List
>   Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 11:10 AM
>   Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>
>
>   no where.
>   patched and laying in tray, I assumed these whe no longer used by the
ecu
>
>   Dan Bubb <jdbubb@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>     OK. That addresses the KS ignition switches.
>     What about the wires that went to the WOT switch that was on your car
> before
>     you swapped to the Audi 5000 throttle body?
>     Where are they connected?
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: "Patrick Bureau"
>     To: "Dan Bubb" ; "_Scirocco Mailing List"
>
>     Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:55 AM
>     Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>
>
>     > I used this diagram install the knock box and switches to my car
>     >
>     htm>
>     >
>     > Dan Bubb wrote:
>     > So, Patrick!
>     > What exactly did you do with the wires that ran to the CIS WOT
switch
> when
>     > you did your conversion and added the KS ignition?
>     > Dan
>     >
>     > ----- Original Message -----
>     > From: "ATS - Patrick Bureau"
>     > To: "Dan Bubb" ; "_Scirocco Mailing List"
>     >
>     > Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 11:13 PM
>     > Subject: RE: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>     >
>     >
>     > > Mr Potter : headwork... yes I know... got 800$ to spare ? hehe I
am
>     > working
>     > > on saving the cash for a full blow reworked head (ie: racing
specs)
>     > >
>     > > Dan: as always Appreciate your inputs (even if we diagree about
that
>     > 8v/16v
>     > > thing eheh)
>     > >
>     > > 1. the TB is audi5000, I use CIS-Lambda with 16v Knock sensor/box,
> and
>     > this
>     > > included the 16v TB switches setup (2 switches),you may be on to
>     somthing
>     > > about the fuel mix, (It hink it may be fuel pressure and wil check
> that
>     > > soon), but enrichment switch.. humm. wil have to test the switches
> to
>     see
>     > if
>     > > one failed on me. good point
>     > >
>     > > 2. the fuel/air mix is not 15:1 , but close (14.8:1 average) and I
> see
>     > your
>     > > point.
>     > >
>     > > 3. I am working on geting a head reworked, as for springs, if I
did
> go
>     > > 268-272 cam would I need to change for HD ?
>     > >
>     > >
>     > > ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
>     > > ----------------------------------------------
>     > > MSN:ATSGTX@hotmail.com |YAHOO:ATSGTX@yahoo.com
>     > > ICQ:32918816 |AIM:Texasscirocco
>     > > ----------------------------------------------
>     > >
>     > >
>     > > =>-----Original Message-----
>     > > =>From: Dan Bubb [mailto:jdbubb@ix.netcom.com]
>     > > =>Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 6:18 PM
>     > > =>To: ATS - Patrick Bureau; _Scirocco Mailing List
>     > > =>Subject: Re: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>Personally, I thought you'd be 115-118 HP so this is a suprise!
>     > > =>There's really no way to compare my engine to yours because of
>     > > =>the Haltech,
>     > > =>but I still have some input (don't I always!)
>     > > =>A week ago I was going to suggest you include A/F ratio in your
>     > > =>runs, but I
>     > > =>see you have. There's a huge clue right there! Dead on 15:1
across
> the
>     > > =>board! CIS is awesome it can hold stoichometric so accurately!
>     > > =>Now, (this is Dan the Parent!) how many times did I give input
on
>     > > =>setting up
>     > > =>your CIS WOT switch???? If you're running at 15:1 then your
switch
>     isn't
>     > > =>triggering or there is some problem with the wiring or
something.
> Your
>     > > =>engine is constantly running closed loop. With the switch it'd
go
>     > > =>open loop
>     > > =>and drop to mid 13:1 (I presume). Now we talked briefly about
>     > > =>this at Cincy,
>     > > =>but the KS ignition WOT switch is not the CIS WOT switch and as
> far as
>     I
>     > > =>know they don't have any interconnection, but whatever, your CIS
>     > > =>WOT switch
>     > > =>is clearly not working or connected.
>     > > =>So, step one is get the frigging WOT switch wired and working. I
>     > > =>bet that'd
>     > > =>give you 5-10 HP right there.
>     > > =>The next items that come to mind are:
>     > > =>1) head, the stock GTI head just isn't that high flow. You need
a
>     ported
>     > > =>head to start making big power with the 8V (one friggen smart
>     > > =>crack from the
>     > > =>16V guys! Just one!). Not sure if a cam will do much without the
>     > > =>head work.
>     > > =>My recollection (this is Dan the old fart speaking) when I was
> running
>     a
>     > > =>stock head going to a bigger cam with the 2.0 just gutted the
> bottom
>     end
>     > > =>without adding anything to the top. I have no objective data and
> the
>     > butt
>     > > =>dyno is a notorious lier, so take that as you wish.
>     > > =>2) cam. The G grind is a good mild cam. You want an 8V to make
> power
>     you
>     > > =>need something that'll make your idle good and lumpy. 272, 280!
>     > > =>They do hurt
>     > > =>the bottom end, but the 2.0 can loose some bottom end and still
> have
>     > > =>terrific off the line acceleration.
>     > > =>3)why the hell are you running a 16V KS box? A 16V isn't an 8V
and
> the
>     > > =>ignition curve is undoubtedly different. Despite your mods I
think
> you
>     > > =>should be running an 8V KS box. Just my opinion.
>     > > =>My exhaust, flywheel, fuel pumps, CR are the substantially the
>     > > =>same as yours
>     > > =>and they support alot more HP so those aren't a big issue for
> upgrade.
>     > > =>Maybe I'll think of more later.
>     > > =>I bet you could work out the CIS WOT switch before you go to
work
>     > > =>tomorrow.
>     > > =>There's a noticable difference!
>     > > =>HTH!
>     > > =>Dan
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>----- Original Message -----
>     > > =>From: ATS - Patrick Bureau
>     > > =>To: _Scirocco Mailing List
>     > > =>Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2003 4:01 PM
>     > > =>Subject: [TECH] 3a dyno in and I am disappointed, sorta...
>     > > =>
>     > > =>
>     > > =>> alright after all my work here is the results I got for my
> 8v....
>     > > =>>
>     > > =>> Best run 97.9HP @ 5200 RPM with 118.9 ft torque @ 3100 RPM,
> dwell
>     set
>     > at
>     > > =>60'
>     > > =>> and timing at 14' idle, 28' @ 3000 rpm.
>
>
>
>
>
>   ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
>   '85 2.0L Prowler Orange, Kamei X1 Rocco
>   '84 1.8L Silver Restoration and '83 Rocco Trailer Project
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