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curing my rod knock(a bit long)



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I am running 10W-30, Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic / NAPA gold oil filter-  I'd think that's the proper weight for our South Dakota winters?  Thanks-
Rob
L F <rocco16v@netzero.net> wrote:Rob-  Even before I got to the part about the oil pump I was thinking "oil pump".   Sounds like you aren't getting oil pressure to the crank/rods quickly enough.   What weight oil are you running? Larrysandiego16v----- Original Message ----- From: Robbie Cotner To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2003 10:53 AMSubject: curing my rod knock(a bit long)

Hey all, I could use some help here!  I rebuilt a JH with 170k, it was strong when I rebuilt it, since I was doing a transplant I figured that was a good time to rebuild it.  The crank was mic'd(sp?) within spec, and I used OEM size bearings.  When assembling the engine, I got the #1 and #3 rods mixed up, which made the engine VERY hard to turn by torque bar.  I'm 19, in a hurry, and immature, so I figured I'd "break the engine in" by hand and turned it 100 times in each direction(wasn't hard to keep moving once you got it moving).  That didn't help, and eventually I figured out what was wrong but not before one of the rod bearings was a bit pre-broken in(very shiny compared to the others which were not shiny at all).  Well I switched the rods back, which may have both fixed and caused a problem since I had to undo the stretch bolts (which were new, but in the case of #1 and #3 had been torqued once, removed and retorqued again).  

I assembled the engine and it ran great over the summer, putting on about 6,000 miles(a lot of road tripping).  Now that winter is here it knocks when it's below freezing(32F) for about a minute.  However, if I start the engine and rev it to about 2-3k for a second, the knock goes away(if it's really cold it doesnt' though).  The knock isn't loud, but it's there.  

Also when rebuilding the engine I reused the original oil pump(with about 180k on it now).  All I did was clean it, and put it back in.  I did not notice any scoring in it.  

So now the big question, could I blame this knock on the oil pump not getting oil to something or another quickly enough?  Or is it too much rod/crank clearance?  Could it be to much wrist pin/piston clearance?  What should I do?  If it is too much rod clearance, can I order a set of new bearings and rod bolts, take off the oil pan, and put em on(hopefully curing the problem)?  The engine far as I know only knocks when cold, not when under load.  A very big thanks to all who have read all of this, and an even bigger thanks to those who reply!

-Rob



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<P>I am running 10W-30, Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic / NAPA gold oil filter-&nbsp; I'd think that's the proper weight for our South Dakota winters?&nbsp; Thanks-
<P>Rob
<P><B><I>L F &lt;rocco16v@netzero.net&gt;</I></B> wrote:
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Rob-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp; Even before I got to the part about the oil pump I was thinking "oil pump".&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>&nbsp;Sounds like you aren't getting oil pressure to the crank/rods quickly enough.&nbsp;&nbsp; What weight oil are you running?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Larry</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>sandiego16v</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A title=robw_z@yahoo.com href="mailto:robw_z@yahoo.com";>Robbie Cotner</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=scirocco-l@scirocco.org href="mailto:scirocco-l@scirocco.org";>scirocco-l@scirocco.org</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, February 02, 2003 10:53 AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> curing my rod knock(a bit long)</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<P>Hey all, I could use some help here!&nbsp; I rebuilt a JH with 170k, it was strong when I rebuilt it, since I was doing a transplant I figured that was a good time to rebuild it.&nbsp; The crank was mic'd(sp?) within spec, and I used OEM size bearings.&nbsp; When assembling the engine, I got the #1 and #3 rods mixed up, which&nbsp;made the engine VERY hard to turn by torque bar.&nbsp; I'm 19, in a hurry, and immature, so I figured I'd "break the engine in" by hand and turned it 100 times in each direction(wasn't hard to keep moving&nbsp;once you got it moving).&nbsp; That didn't help, and eventually I figured out what was wrong but not before one of the rod bearings was a bit pre-broken in(very shiny compared to the others which were not shiny at all).&nbsp; Well I switched the rods back, which may have both fixed and caused a problem since I had to undo the stretch bolts (which were new, but in the case of #1 and #3 had been torqued once, removed and retorqued again).&nbsp; </P>
<P>I assembled the engine and it ran great over the summer, putting on about&nbsp;6,000 miles(a lot of road tripping).&nbsp; Now that winter is here&nbsp;it knocks when&nbsp;it's below&nbsp;freezing(32F) for about a minute.&nbsp; However, if I start the engine and rev it to about 2-3k for a second, the knock goes away(if it's really cold it doesnt' though).&nbsp; The knock isn't loud, but it's there.&nbsp; </P>
<P>Also when rebuilding the engine I reused the original oil pump(with about 180k on it now).&nbsp; All I did was clean it, and put it back in.&nbsp; I did not notice any scoring in it.&nbsp; </P>
<P>So now the big question, could I blame this knock on the oil pump not getting oil to something or another quickly enough?&nbsp; Or is it too much rod/crank clearance?&nbsp; Could it be to much wrist pin/piston clearance?&nbsp; What should I do?&nbsp; If it is too much rod clearance, can I order a set of new bearings and rod bolts, take off the oil pan, and put em on(hopefully curing the problem)?&nbsp; The engine far as I know only knocks when cold, not when under load.&nbsp; A very big thanks to all who have read all of this, and an even bigger thanks to those who reply!</P>
<P>-Rob</P>
<P><BR>
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