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Downpipe/Manifold Exhaust leak?
I've got an even simpler theory-- use whatever works for you and gets the
job done!
-Toby
On Sat, 20 Dec 2003, L F wrote:
> Interesting theory. It flies in the face of conventional wisdom, which says the smaller diameter extension will absorb more torsional energy, thereby reducing the torque that actually reaches the fastener.
> i.e. use the BIGGEST (diameter) and SHORTEST extension you possible can.
> If this means nothing to any of you, feel free to delete.
>
> Larry
> :)
>
> as far as the impact thing. i've found that using a single long 3/8
> extension to get up there makes the impact much more effecctive. using 1/2
> extensions (more weight), or multiple 3/8 extensions (more play), reduce the
> effectiveness of the impact.
> i use the mongo sears 1/2 drive impact at 100 psi, with an immediate step
> down to 3/8, and have never had to leave it on any of those manifold bolts
> for more than a few seconds, although i do a few rounds of pb blaster prior
> to removal.
> i get the same thing you described - some come off with studs, some dont.
> Al
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T. Reed" <treed2@wsu.edu>
> To: "Joshua Hignight" <joshhignight@techography.net>
> Cc: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Saturday, December 20, 2003 1:53 AM
> Subject: Re: Downpipe/Manifold Exhaust leak?
>
>
> > I'll second that.. the studs and nuts can be a royal pain after almost 20
> > years of rust and exhaust temperatures.
> >
> > I fought a 3 day battle about four years ago trying to get them off. Half
> > of the studs came out attached to the nuts and the other half - well, I
> > left them undisturbed until I did my engine swap when I replaced them. I
> > was afraid of breaking them off by trying to remove them with the manifold
> > attached.
> >
> > I succeeded in moving the studs/nuts only after hitting them with a
> > liberal spray of liquid wrench about 8 days in a row, several times a day.
> > I went through almost a whole can of the stuff, but it definitely helped.
> >
> > I think I wire-brushed some of the rust off, too. That allowed the
> > penetrating oil to get down in to the threads a bit, I recommend
> > torching/cooling cycles in combination with the liquid wrench. Just
> > remember that the liquid wrench stuff is semi-flammable and it stinks
> > pretty bad when it burns. The smell gets absorbed in to your skin and
> > clothing very easily.
> >
> > I would take the wobble-extensions + hand ratchet route (you definitely
> > want 1/2" drive) before impact. Stripping or breaking any of the fasteners
> > is going to make your life miserable -quick-! I tried to use an impact
> > gun but none of them even budged. After more liquid wrench, heat, and
> > breaker-bar action, however, I was able to get them to turn out a couple
> > of revolutions over 60 seconds or so of constant impact-ing. I was
> > then able to work them out slowly with a hand ratchet.
> >
> > BTW its a pain to get the extensions fed up around all the obstacles. If
> > you can get the heat shield off (you'll probably have to cut the bolt) of
> > the downpipe you'll probably have a much easier time.
> >
> > You will want a new gasket, new studs and new nuts to do the job properly.
> > Should be around $10-$15 for everything.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > -Toby
> >
> > On Sat, 20 Dec 2003, Joshua Hignight wrote:
> >
> > > Watch out for the studs and nuts on the flange. I just replaced my
> > > downpipe and two out of the 6 studs either broke or stripped. not a
> > > fun or cheap thing to deal with. Also, the old O2 sensor is usually a
> > > pain to remove. You're probably best getting a new one if you can't
> > > easily get the old one out.
> > >
> > > peace,
> > > Joshua
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > Several people have replied with good advice on replacing the flex
> > > joint....let me give some on trying to repair the leaking unit that's
> > > on there now: don't.
> > > > BTDT
> > > >
> > > > Larry
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: James S. Danda
> > > > To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > > Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 5:24 AM
> > > > Subject: Downpipe/Manifold Exhaust leak?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Hi,
> > > > I'm new to the list. I apologize in advance if this is a redundant
> > > question.
> > > >
> > > > I have a 1986 16v scirocco and there is a leak in the downpipe. I
> > > can't see where it is coming from, but I can feel the exhaust leak at
> > > a flange point between the exhaust manifold and the downpipe. Its not
> > > at the gasket, its in the 'shock thingy' that absorbs the twist of the
> > > engine. I'm guessing the downpipe fits in this shockabsorber and a
> > > gasket of some sort needs replacing. Since I cant get a good look at
> > > it and have never seen one before, I am only guessing.
> > > >
> > > > Is this common and a DYI fix? Do I need a complete downpipe or is
> > > there a gasket in there that needs replacing?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks!
> > > > Jim
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > >
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